La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Abate Riserva 2008
Pair with roast and stewed red meats, roasted game and aged cheeses.
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La Poderina is located in Montalcino, acquired by Saiagricola in 1988 and has been the "dependance" in Montalcino of the group. With 20 hectares of vineyard, situated in the southwest part of Montalcino, it is found in a perhaps little known position but certainly one of the most valid of the entire zone. Production is centered on the renewal of the enological style of Brunello, a famous red wine, but sometimes a bit too much repressed by traditional methods, which are in certain ways obsolete.
The wines of La Poderina, on the other hand, undergo an ageing process in little barrels for years, barriques of French rovere next to large casks, but overall in the vineyard systems of highly qualitative cultivation are adapted, that nothing gives into the quantity of the production for vine stock, with surrender that amply maintain under 8 ton (200 pounds) per acre according to the regulations. Difficult decisions, without a doubt, but also the only possibility if you want to follow with coherence the objective of the maximum possible quality. A tough commitment given the international prestige that a wine like Brunello di Montalcino possesses and in particular that of the sub zone of Castelnouvo dell'Albate, that stands out for its elegance and equilibrium.
It is in this light that the wine making research that the technical staff of La Poderina have been carrying out for 10 years, has to be considered. Emphasizing as much as possible the typical characteristics, not only of Brunello or Rosso but also of the specific area in question. The achievements are greatly encouraging and open an opportunity for new interpretation of a great wine with Tuscan and Italian traditions like Brunello di Montalcino.
Famous for its bold, layered and long-lived red, Brunello di Montalcino, the town of Montalcino is about 70 miles south of Florence, and has a warmer and drier climate than that of its neighbor, Chianti. The Sangiovese grape is king here, as it is in Chianti, but Montalcino has its own clone called Brunello.
The Brunello vineyards of Montalcino blanket the rolling hills surrounding the village and fan out at various elevations, creating the potential for Brunello wines expressing different styles. From the valleys, where deeper deposits of clay are found, come wines typically bolder, more concentrated and rich in opulent black fruit. The hillside vineyards produce wines more concentrated in red fruits and floral aromas; these sites reach up to over 1,600 feet and have shallow soils of rocks and shale.
Brunello di Montalcino by law must be aged a minimum of four years, including two years in barrel before realease and once released, typically needs more time in bottle for its drinking potential to be fully reached. The good news is that Montalcino makes a “baby brother” version. The wines called Rosso di Montalcino are often made from younger vines, aged for about a year before release, offer extraordinary values and are ready to drink young.
The perfect intersection of bright red fruit and savory earthiness, Sangiovese is among Italy's elite red grape varieties and is responsible for the best red wines of Tuscany. While it is best known as the chief component of Chianti, it is also the main grape in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and reaches the height of its power and intensity in the complex, long-lived Brunello di Montalcino
Elsewhere throughout Italy, Sangiovese plays an important role in many easy-drinking, value-driven red blends and on the French island of Corsica, under the name Nielluccio, it produces excellent bright and refreshing red and rosé wines with a personality of their own. Sangiovese has also enjoyed success growing in California and Washington.
In the Glass
Sangiovese is a medium-bodied red with qualities of tart cherry, plum, sun dried tomato, fresh tobacco and herbs. High-quality, well-aged examples can take on tertiary notes of smoke, leather, game, potpourri and dried fruit. Corsican Nielluccio is distinguished by a subtle perfume of dried flowers.
Sangiovese is the ultimate pizza and pasta red—its high acidity, moderate alcohol, and fine-grained tannins create a perfect symbiosis with tomato-based dishes, braised vegetables, roasted and cured meat, hard cheese and anything off the barbecue.
Although it is the star variety of Tuscany, cult-classic “Super-Tuscan” wines may actually contain no Sangiovese at all! Since the 1970s, local winemakers have been producing big, bold wines as a blend of one or more of several international varieties—usually Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot or Syrah—with or without Sangiovese.