Winemaker Notes
The 2021 W.S. Keyes Chardonnay opens with a delicious nose of apple, pear and musky jasmine blossom. Orchard fruits carry through to the palate, which intensifies with lemon zest then deepens into hazelnut and a little gunpowder. Unmistakable Howell Mountain minerality is infused throughout. The complex balance of fruit, floral and savory creates a wonderfully fresh and evocative bottle.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
This is such a beautiful white with sliced apple and pineapple with hints of lemon tart. Full-bodied with creamy texture and a lemon curd, honey, stony and fresh finish. Extremely energetic and long.
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 2021 Chardonnay W.S. Keyes Vineyard is terrific. Coming from a site on Howell Mountain, it has bright lemon and tangerine fruit as well as some honeyed, flinty mineral, spice, and savory herb notes. It's medium-bodied, has bright acidity, beautiful balance, and outstanding length. It's going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age, and I suspect have 10-12 years of overall longevity.
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
Today Cabernet Sauvignon is the star of this part of Napa’s rugged, eastern hills, but Zinfandel was responsible for giving the Howell Mountain growing area its original fame in the late 1800s.
Winemaking in Howell Mountain was abandoned during Prohibition, and wasn’t reawakened until the arrival of Randy Dunn, a talented winemaker famous for the success of Caymus in the 1970s and 1980s. In the early eighties, he set his sights on the Napa hills and subsequently astonished the wine world with a Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. Shortly thereafter Howell Mountain became officially recognized as the first sub-region of Napa Valley (1983).
With vineyards at 1,400 to 2,000 feet in elevation, they predominantly sit above the fog line but the days in Howell Mountain remain cooler than those in the heart of the valley, giving the grapes a bit more time on the vine.
The Howell Mountain AVA includes 1,000 acres of vineyards interspersed by forestlands in the Vaca Mountains. The soils, shallow and infertile with good drainage, are volcanic ash and red clay and produce highly concentrated berries with thick skins. The resulting wines are full of structure and potential to age.
Today Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Sirah thrive in this sub-appellation, as well as its founding variety, Zinfandel.