Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
-
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Bordering on perfection, the 2004 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands (from Kistler’s new vineyard planted on the Sonoma Coast) offers up sweet plum, forest floor, and violet scents along with a La Tache-like, ethereal, floral, and black raspberry-like character. This prodigious, deep ruby/purple-colored Pinot possesses fabulous concentration as well as a layered, multidimensional palate, wonderful fruit, sweet tannin, and good acidity. Interestingly, Steve Kistler planted this vineyard with the old Calera clone, which is rumored to be a suitcase clone pulled out of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti grand cru vineyards.
For Steve Kistler and his longtime assistant, Mark Bixler, 2004 was a very small crop, even smaller than the modest production of 2003. This is a reference point winery for New World Chardonnay, although their viticultural and winemaking techniques are decidedly Burgundian. Interestingly, during the last year I have had an opportunity to taste some ten year old Kistler Chardonnays, and they have aged well in the bottle. While a decade is not long when compared with some long-lived white Burgundies, by the standards of most California Chardonnays, which are generally best consumed during their first 1-3 years of life, the Kistler techniques of whole cluster pressing, slow malolactic fermentation, aging on their lees in high quality French oak, and bottling without fining or filtration appear to be producing longer lived Chardonnays. Kistler has enjoyed a run of terrific vintages in the new century. Moreover, they seem to be ratcheting up their performance in terms of the quality and complexity of their Pinot Noirs.
The Sonoma Coast AVA is large in area but, not counting overlapping regions like Russian River Valley, only has a few thousand acres of grapevines—and it’s no wonder. Much of the region is rugged and not easily accessible. Its proximity to the Pacific Ocean’s fog and cool breezes limits the varieties that can be cultivated, but it proves to be an ideal environment for high quality Pinot Noir.
Since fog is a frequent fact of life here, as are heavy marine layers that sometimes bring rain, the best vineyards are wisely planted above the fog line, on picturesque ridges that capture enough sun to provide even ripening. That, with the overnight drop in temperature that reliably preserves acidity, results in fine expressions of Pinot Noir that often receive tremendous critic and consumer praise alike, and are often in high demand.