Winemaker Notes
The 2015 Kelby James Russell Riesling was inspired by the style of one of the world's great and overlooked Riesling producing countries, Australia. Made with 100% Riesling from the rich fruit of Lahoma Vineyard on Seneca Lake, it is their twist on an age-worthy style. Bone dry and electric on the palate with notes of honey and lime on the nose, this Riesling explores how modified Australian techniques are expressed with Finger Lakes fruit.
Professional Ratings
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Wine & Spirits
Kelby Russell spent time in Australia and this is his homage to its rieslings, made bone dry with an elevage incorporating lots of solids (the latter press fractions) and long aging to mellow the result. Six years in bottle have made the wine subtle and fine; the lees has taken on a smoky note, the dried apple and peach flavors adorned by a bit of dried herbs, bread crust, and caramelized apricot set in a firm, tense structure. The whole effect is quietly exotic, a wine to ponder, perhaps with a tuna-belly conserva.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2015 Dry Riesling was sourced from the 9er block of Lahoma Vineyard on Seneca Lake. Very dry, it comes in with just one gram per liter of residual sugar and 6.6 of total acidity. It also has 13.6% alcohol, which is a big spike over last year's. This late release is the third vintage of this brand, said to be an homage to the "great, age-worthy...Rieslings of Eden Valley in Australia." This is the best yet in this brand. Solid in the mid-palate and powerful on the finish, this maintains good balance, as it is concentrated enough to soak up the power. The juicy finish is enticing and it tastes great too—it's not just a wine that revels in aggression. Finishing dry and coating the palate, it also seems poised to age well. Under screw cap, there should be no rush here. It might in fact be better next year or a couple years later, although the late release means that this drinks reasonably well now too. We'll see how it goes in time. It looks like a wine that should age 15 years or more from the vintage date. Needless to say, this is a fabulous bargain.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
As the most historic wine-producing region in New York state, winemaking in the Finger Lakes area dates back to the 1820s and today as a region, accounts for 90% of the state’s total wine production.
Its narrow and deep lakes created by the movement of Ice Age glaciers create an environment similar to the classic Riesling-loving regions of Europe, namely Germany and Austria. The Finger Lakes retain summer heat that incidentally warms up cold winter air, making it fall down from the lakes’ steep slopes. When spring comes, the lakes, already cooled by cold winter weather, stave off vine budding until the danger of frost has subsided. The main lakes of the zone, that is those big enough to moderate the climate in this way, are the focal points of prime vineyard areas. They include Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga.
While Riesling has fueled most of the region’s success, today Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc enjoy some attention.