Winemaker Notes
The spicy spontaneous nose still dominates, but then the first fruity notes (juicy peach, grapefruit, white currant) and the slate literally pushes itself out of the glass. Very juicy and densely woven on the palate, a lot of melting, sweetness well integrated and countered by the invigorating acidity. A cabinet that will continue to reveal new facets over the next two decades.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
A prototypical riesling Kabinett for the Ruwer tributary of the Mosel with the sleek, almost dry and racy personality we associate with this special terroir. The effusive aromas of yellow apple, white peach, rhubarb and garden herbs are married to a firm core of wet stone minerality on the light-bodied yet compact palate.
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Wine Spectator
There's lushness and weight to this texturally intriguing Riesling, which pulses with mineral energy. White blossom, waxy pear and chamomile notes are juicy and just barely off-dry, anchored by a mineral foundation. Tugs of bitter grapefruit peel and flint clean up the finish, with a waft of smoke. Drink now through 2032. 1,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
Following the Mosel River as it slithers and weaves dramatically through the Eifel Mountains in Germany’s far west, the Mosel wine region is considered by many as the source of the world’s finest and longest-lived Rieslings.
Mosel’s unique and unsurpassed combination of geography, geology and climate all combine together to make this true. Many of the Mosel’s best vineyard sites are on the steep south or southwest facing slopes, where vines receive up to ten times more sunlight, a very desirable condition in this cold climate region. Given how many twists and turns the Mosel River makes, it is not had to find a vineyard with this exposure. In fact, the Mosel’s breathtakingly steep slopes of rocky, slate-based soils straddle the riverbanks along its entire length. These rocky slate soils, as well as the river, retain and reflect heat back to the vineyards, a phenomenon that aids in the complete ripening of its grapes.
Riesling is by far the most important and prestigious grape of the Mosel, grown on approximately 60% of the region’s vineyard land—typically on the desirable sites that provide the best combination of sunlight, soil type and altitude. The best Mosel Rieslings—dry or sweet—express marked acidity, low alcohol, great purity and intensity with aromas and flavors of wet slate, citrus and stone fruit. With age, the wine’s color will become more golden and pleasing aromas of honey, dried apricot and sometimes petrol develop.
Other varieties planted in the Mosel include Müller-Thurgau, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), all performing quite well here.