Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
-
Wine & Spirits
Drouhin owns 3.5 acres in the large south- and southwest-facing amphitheater of Vaudésir. As with the rest of the family’s Chablis domaine, they have farmed the vines organically since 1990 and under biodynamics since 1999. They age this wine in older oak, which seems to amplify the flavor of the rock, a chalky pallor that blossoms into notes of fresh herbs, yellow flowers and the unmistakable mineral complexity of Chablis. As reserved and firmly structured as this may be, it immediately connects to emotional centers in the brain (mine, at least), taking no time to hit home and only growing more thought-provoking over the course of several days. Considering the cost of a simple Puligny villages wine these days, $74 seems a small price to pay for access to Burgundian bliss.
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
The source of the most racy, light and tactile, yet uniquely complex Chardonnay, Chablis, while considered part of Burgundy, actually reaches far past the most northern stretch of the Côte d’Or proper. Its vineyards cover hillsides surrounding the small village of Chablis about 100 miles north of Dijon, making it actually closer to Champagne than to Burgundy. Champagne and Chablis have a unique soil type in common called Kimmeridgian, which isn’t found anywhere else in the world except southern England. A 180 million year-old geologic formation of decomposed clay and limestone, containing tiny fossilized oyster shells, spans from the Dorset village of Kimmeridge in southern England all the way down through Champagne, and to the soils of Chablis. This soil type produces wines full of structure, austerity, minerality, salinity and finesse.
Chablis Grands Crus vineyards are all located at ideal elevations and exposition on the acclaimed Kimmeridgian soil, an ancient clay-limestone soil that lends intensity and finesse to its wines. The vineyards outside of Grands Crus are Premiers Crus, and outlying from those is Petit Chablis. Chablis Grand Cru, as well as most Premier Cru Chablis, can age for many years.