Winemaker Notes
After the destruction of the Burgundy vineyards due to the phylloxera epidemic of 1875-1880, Clos des Mouches was entirely replanted with Pinot Noir. Having fortunately come across some ancient documents which revealed that the vineyard had previously produced an excellent white wine, Maurice Drouhin, in 1921, began replanting with some Chardonnay. The result was of exceptional quality. To-day, there is an almost equal balance between white and red.
Some of the stocks he planted are still alive to-day. They constitute a precious genetic pool, especially when grafted onto superior root-stocks. They are not vigorous and produce tiny berries with a thick skin. The density of plantation is high and the yield is low.
Soil doesn't change much in the Clos. Lighter and stony at the top, coloured with broken stones at the bottom, with a good variety of chalky marls bringing complexity. Once harvested, the white grapes are crushed in a pneumatic press. The juice obtained is then fermented in oak barrels for a year during which the malolactic fermentation will take place.
Clos des Mouches white is a generous wine combining the body of Corton Charlemagne and the elegance of Montrachet. Its hue is bright, limpid, and pale golden. It has an elegantly perfumed nose of smoky citrus with tinges of vanilla. On the palate, the aromas are reminiscent of honey, almond, lemon and, as the wine gets older, grilled almonds.
It is best served at 12°C (53F) and is perfect with fish or white meat in sauce. It needs at least two years in bottle to fully develop and can last 8 to 12 years.
"Pale lemon; persistant, light, lemon-zest and oak-scent nose; well balanced, supple, fruity middleweight; ripely juicy, moderate complexity, stylish..."
-The World of Fine Wine
Professional Ratings
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Wine Enthusiast
As rich and opulent as its red wine pair, this is ripe and soft, a swirl of velvet tempered by citrus and sweet and fresh acidity. The toast of the wood is only just evident, its presence felt as much as tasted. Despite its richness, it does remain wedded to Burgundy, as evidenced by the tight, steely finish.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Honey, bees wax, peach, grapefruit, diverse flowers, and chalk dust in the nose of Drouhin’s white 2006 Beaune Clos des Mouches usher in a palate of striking delicacy, poise, and refinement for the vintage, yet for all that flatteringly creamy in texture and quite capable of supporting and complimenting a significant element of new oak, which shows up as toast and vanilla. There is an underlying sense of almost stony firmness that seems to be typical for this site, even in such a rich vintage. This wine should benefit from at least 6-8 years of bottle maturation. The 2005 is similarly promising, though less charming today.
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Wine Spectator
High-toned oak aromas segue into a tightly wound, lemon- and hazelnut-flavored white. This has density, but needs time to balance the bracing structure. Best from 2010 through 2016. 600 cases imported.
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
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A legendary wine region setting the benchmark for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay worldwide, Burgundy is a perennial favorite of many wine lovers. While the concept of ‘terroir’ reigns supreme here—soil type, elevation and angle of each slope—this is a region firmly rooted in tradition. Because of the Napoleonic Code requiring equal distribution of property and land among all heirs, vineyard ownership in Burgundy is extremely fragmented, with some growers responsible for just one or two rows of vines. This system has led to the predominance of the "negociant"—a merchant who purchases fruit from many different growers to vinify and bottle together.
Burgundy’s cool, continental climate and Jurassic limestone soils are perfect for the production of elegant, savory and mineral-driven Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with plenty of acidity. Vintage variation is of particular importance for Burgundy wine, as weather conditions can be variable and unpredictable. In some years spring frost and hail must be overcome.
The Côte d’Or, a long and narrow escarpment, forms the heart of the region, split into the Côte de Nuits to the north and the Côte de Beaune to the south. The former is home to many of the world’s finest Pinot Noir wines, while Chardonnay plays a much more prominent role in the latter, though outstanding red and white Burgundy wines are produced throughout. Other key appellations include the Côte Chalonnaise, home to great value Pinot Noir and sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne. The Mâconnais produces soft and round, value-driven Chardonnay while Chablis, the northernmost region of Burgundy, is a paradise for any lover of bright, acid-driven and often age-worthy versions of the grape.