Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
Stunning succulence and subtlety. The concentration and power are completely underplayed until you get to the brain-rattling finish of this Mosel masterpiece. Drink or hold.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Another brilliant value is the 2016 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese, a dessert-styled effort that has a monster bouquet of sugared lime, mint, and citrus, with a sweet grapefruit-like note developing with time in the glass. Possessing balancing minerality and acidity, beautiful purity, and a layered, incredibly impressive texture, it’s another gem of a wine to seek out.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2016 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese (AP 13 17) is clear, fresh and vegetal/floral on the pretty complex but clear and refreshingly flinty nose. Bottled with 8.5% alcohol, this is a lush, piquant and well-structured Spätlese with good grip and a perceptible sweetness. The finish is intense and complex and reveals a firm mineral structure.
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Wine Spectator
Pure, flying like a butterfly across the palate, this starts with mineral and floral notes up front, but unfolds to show multiple layers of flavor, remaining seductive throughout. The peach, glazed pear and honey flavors are perfectly balanced, with power and force seemingly reserved. Shows wonderful expression. Drink now through 2037.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
Following the Mosel River as it slithers and weaves dramatically through the Eifel Mountains in Germany’s far west, the Mosel wine region is considered by many as the source of the world’s finest and longest-lived Rieslings.
Mosel’s unique and unsurpassed combination of geography, geology and climate all combine together to make this true. Many of the Mosel’s best vineyard sites are on the steep south or southwest facing slopes, where vines receive up to ten times more sunlight, a very desirable condition in this cold climate region. Given how many twists and turns the Mosel River makes, it is not had to find a vineyard with this exposure. In fact, the Mosel’s breathtakingly steep slopes of rocky, slate-based soils straddle the riverbanks along its entire length. These rocky slate soils, as well as the river, retain and reflect heat back to the vineyards, a phenomenon that aids in the complete ripening of its grapes.
Riesling is by far the most important and prestigious grape of the Mosel, grown on approximately 60% of the region’s vineyard land—typically on the desirable sites that provide the best combination of sunlight, soil type and altitude. The best Mosel Rieslings—dry or sweet—express marked acidity, low alcohol, great purity and intensity with aromas and flavors of wet slate, citrus and stone fruit. With age, the wine’s color will become more golden and pleasing aromas of honey, dried apricot and sometimes petrol develop.
Other varieties planted in the Mosel include Müller-Thurgau, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), all performing quite well here.