Il Feuduccio Montepulciano D'Abruzzo Ursonia 2004
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
Il Feuduccio is one of those properties one never hears much about, yet the wines rarely fail to impress.
Instead, Gaetano chose to craft a range of all-Abruzzi wines in celebration of his homeland. In 1996, he secured 67 acres of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (now expanded to 99 acres) and one of Italy’s greatest oenologists: Franco Bernabei. The entire estate, now totalling 129 acres that comprise superb olive groves, is 100% organically cultivated.
All phases of the preparatory work have been supervised not only by Bernabei and Gaetano, but by the latter’s eldest daughter, Laura, and manager Rocco Cipollone.
The sandy-clayey-silty terrain – catered to by ideal microclimate, ideal temperature range, ideal varieties, ideally trained and drained – is, in Bernabei’s words, baciato da Dio,"kissed by God". In 2004, the range was expanded to two white blends (Yare now being flanked by Il Feuduccio Bianco) and four native Montepulciano d’Abruzzos.
A warm, Mediterranean vine-growing paradise, in Abruzzo, the distance from mountains to seaside is relatively short. The Apenniness, which run through the center of Italy, rise up on its western side while the Adriatic Sea defines its eastern border.
Wine composition tends to two varieties: Abruzzo’s red grape, Montepulciano and its white, Trebbiano. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo can come in a quaffable, rustic and fruity style that generally drinks best young. It is also capable of making a more serious style, where oak aging tames its purely wild fruit.
Trebbiano in Abruzzo also comes in a couple of varieties. Trebbiano Toscana makes a simple and fruity white. However when meticulously tended, the specific Trebbiano d’Abruzzo-based white wines can be complex and long-lived.
In the region’s efforts to focus on better sites and lower yields, vine acreage has decreased in recent years while quality has increased.
Consistently enticing and enjoyable, Montepulciano enjoys great popularity throughout central and southern Italy and is gaining quite a following in many other parts of the world. Widely prolific in its homeland, Montepulciano is actually the second most planted red variety in Italy after Sangiovese, though it is most associated with the region of Abruzzo where it achieves its highest potential. A tiny bit grows in California, Argentina and Australia as well.
In the Glass
Dark and inky, Montepulciano brims with boysenberry, black plum and juicy tart cherry flavors. Typical aromas come in the form of berry pie, freshly cut Italian herbs, dark chocolate and licorice. It’s a full-bodied wine with fine to rustic tannins.
Historically this variety has been one to inhabit many pizzeria and cafe wine lists throughout central and into southern Italy, offering amazing value for everyday consumption. It is no doubt a perfect complement to a variety of other foods we are used to: barbecued brisket, meatloaf, Shepherd’s Pie and grilled portabella mushrooms. Think of it as the perfect alternative to Syrah, Petite Sirah or Malbec if you’re looking to broaden your horizons.
The wine called Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is actually not to be confused with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Montepulciano is also the name of a village in Tuscany; Sangiovese grows there and is responsible for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The grape called Montepulciano grows in Abruzzo and makes the wine called Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.