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Idlewild Fox Hill Cortese 2013
The criterion for selecting a vineyard is quite simple: the site has to be compelling. Attributes that create a special vineyard are uniqueness in climate, varietal, soil, vine age, and vineyard practice. Perhaps most important though, the vineyard must show quality, balance, and soul.
A large and diverse appellation within California’s North Coast AVA, Mendocino is home to several smaller sub-regions—most notably the Anderson Valley. This scenic region, with rolling hills covered in redwood forests as well as vineyards, is one of the world’s top producers of certified organically-grown grapes. Due to wide geographical and climatic variation, a vast array of wine styles can be found here.
Cortese’s territory was once part of the city-state of Genoa, and still the grape practically owes more allegiance to Liguria than the region that grows it: Piedmont. At the far southeastern corner of Piedmont, in the province of Alessandria, Cortese was first recorded in the early 17th century and has no known relatives. It is most highly regarded in this location today, know as Gavi. Because of its freshness and chalky minerality, this white wine commonly populates the fish restaurants’ wine lists of the Ligurian coast. Cortese grows well in other parts of Piedmont: Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato a few miles west and just over a few hills to the east, in the Colli Tortonesi. But there Cortese doesn’t always achieve the ripeness, or get the winemaking proficiency that it does when grown on the limestone-rich soils of Gavi. While some renowned Barolo producers produce stellar Gavi, such as Michele Chiarlo and Pio Cesare, the region has no shortage of its own dedicated producers.