Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Vinous
Literally translated as “a place of its own,” the 2018 Syrah from Hors Catégorie was sourced from a two-acre plot at 1,400 feet of densely planted 11 years old Syrah vines. Aromatically quite intense, it shows a very Côte-Rôtie nose as green peppercorns, iron, bull’s blood, orange rind and black currant scents all take shape in the glass. The palate displays incredible balance and minerality, offering a dense core of blackberry compote, crème de violette, saline-drenched orange, and stony undertones. Glorious in its fresh youth, this has another decade or more to go in the cellar. It’s the finest edition of this wine that I have tasted so far. Tasted twice with similar results.
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Jeb Dunnuck
As always, the 2018 Syrah turns the savory dial up to 11, offering an incredible array of smoked blackcurrants, blueberries, cured meats, shiitake mushroom, violets, and ground pepper-like aromas and flavors. Coming from two steep hillsides of broken basalt off the north fork of the Walla Walla River, I've often compared this cuvée to a wine from the Côte Brune side of Côte Rôtie, and that still holds, yet this certainly has its own style. Medium to full-bodied, pure, and layered on the palate, it has gorgeous tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. There's nothing else in the world like it. Give bottles 2-4 years and enjoy over the following 15+.
Rating:98+ -
Wine Enthusiast
In just a few short years, this wine has distinguished itself as one of the very best in the world. The only wine coming from this site in the North Fork area of the valley and harvested at barely a ton per acre on slopes that go up to 60% grade, the aromas rise from the glass, with notes of sea breeze, firepit, medicine, olive and fresh herb. It explodes on the palate with intense, rich savory flavors with crushed flowers on the finish. As always, beyond the intensity, it is the structure that truly separates this wine. The finish also refuses to quit. It a wine that grabs you, shakes you and refuses to let go.
Cellar Selection -
James Suckling
This has an intense, savory nose of barbecued meat, tar, grilled mushroom, dried herbs, burnt orange and black fruit. It’s full-bodied with sleek, velvety tannins. Very silky and seamless. Smoky, spicy layers with bitter-herb and saline undertones on the long, flavorful finish. Some tobacco and iodine.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Another impressive bottling for Hors Catégorie, the 2018 Syrah opens with a seductive and aromatic nose filled with smoked lavender, black raspberry skin, umami, hung meats, black olive, red and black peppercorn and spiced plum reduction. Medium to full-bodied, it explodes on the palate, revealing a generous profile with complexity, elegance and finesse. Flavors of turned earth, smoked cherry pie filling, spicy potpourri and worn leather sway across the mid-palate with impeccable balance that will remain a champion for almost two decades. The wine ends with a long, winding, expressive and complex finish that has me coming back for second and third helpings. This comes from a steep vineyard planted on a 60° slope that has been farmed with a biodynamic approach since its inception. Bravo, I want more! If you are lucky enough to find some of this wine, buy it!
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Wine Spectator
Distinctive and dynamic, this Syrah overflows with blueberry, blackberry and smoked meat flavors accented by black olive and licorice. Builds toward savory tannins
Marked by an unmistakable deep purple hue and savory aromatics, Syrah makes an intense, powerful and often age-worthy red. Native to the Northern Rhône, Syrah achieves its maximum potential in the steep village of Hermitage and plays an important component in the Red Rhône Blends of the south, adding color and structure to Grenache and Mourvèdre. Syrah is the most widely planted grape of Australia and is important in California and Washington. Sommelier Secret—Such a synergy these three create together, the Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre trio often takes on the shorthand term, “GSM.”
Responsible for some of Washington’s most highly acclaimed wines, the Walla Walla Valley has experienced a surge in popularity in recent years and is home to both historic wineries and younger, up-and-coming producers.
The Walla Walla Valley, a Native American name meaning “many waters,” is located in southeastern Washington; part of the appellation actually extends into Oregon. Soils here are well-drained, sandy loess over Missoula Flood deposits and fractured basalt.
It is a region perfectly suited to Rhône-inspired Syrahs, distinguished by savory notes of red berry, black olive, smoke and fresh earth. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot create a range of styles from smooth and supple to robust and well-structured. White varieties are rare but some producers blend Sauvignon Blanc with Sémillon, resulting in a rich and round style, and plantings of Viognier, while minimal, are often quite successful.
Of note within Walla Walla, is one new and very peculiar appellation, called the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. This is the only AVA in the U.S. whose boundaries are totally defined by the soil type. Soils here look a bit like those in the acclaimed Rhône region of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but are large, ancient, basalt cobblestones. These stones work in the same way as they do in Chateauneuf, absorbing and then radiating the sun's heat up to enhance the ripening of grape clusters. The Rocks District is within the part of Walla Walla that spills over into Oregon and naturally excels in the production of Rhône varieties like Syrah, as well as the Bordeaux varieties.