Gerovassiliou Malagousia 2016

“It’s the Château Grillet of northern Greece,” one taster remarked. Like that famous French viognier, this malagousia stakes its own place among the many in Greece with its satin texture and restrained floral notes. Evangelos Gerovassiliou has been working with the variety since the 1970s, when he propagated it from an experimental plot at Porto Carras; it’s now the leading variety at his 138-acre estate south of Thessaloniki. His 2016 is bright and fresh, with a sea-salt edge that suggests serving it al fresco with grilled fish.

The 2016 Malagouzia is mostly unoaked (about one-third of it was fermented in neutral oak for two months). It comes in at 13.5% alcohol. Showing surprising concentration and richness for this grape, this rolls over the palate and coats it nicely. It has good supporting acidity and the finish is long. Perhaps the oak treatment helps contribute to the wine feeling a bit more concentrated, but if there is a quibble, it does subdue the enticing aromatics that I love on this grape, just a bit. With air, it begins to seem like Malagousia again, but there is, perhaps, just a hint of smoke, too. This is still very fine, impressive for its solidity and freshness. It's a fine bargain, too. It should age for a few years, but don't hesitate to drink it now, when it is robust and exuberant.