Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Wine Spectator
Very rich and lush, with lots of butter, cream and peach flavors up front, pushed by notes of almond, warm brioche, mango and green plum. Dense and muscular on the finish, this will need to unwind a bit more. A truly rare Viognier that needs cellaring. Best from 2009 through 2015. 500 cases made.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Absolutely profound and one of the best made in a number of years is the 2006 Condrieu Coteaux du Vernon. Light gold, this stunning wine smells of spring flowers, peach, honeysuckle, quince, and apricot notes with an almost mineral liqueur-like note. This full-bodied wine is heady, rich, and stunningly deep, with zesty acidity and presence on the palate. It should be drunk over the next 2-3 years, as my experience with these wines aging has been disappointing. Georges Vernay’s attractive daughter Christine has been running this estate for a number of years, and has not only built on the highly successful white wines of her father, but has also dramatically increased the quality of the reds.
Full-figured and charmingly floral, Viognier is one of the most important white grapes of the northern Rhône where it is used both to produce single varietal wines and as an important blending grape. Look for great New World examples from California, Oregon, Washington and cooler parts of Australia. Somm Secret—Viognier plays a surprisingly important role in the red wines of Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône. About 5% Viognier is typically co-fermented with the Syrah in order to stabilize the color, and as an added benefit, add a subtle perfume.
As the source of some of the most vibrant and powerful white wines in France, Condrieu is uniquely situated in one of the northern outposts of the Rhone River. It is the original Viognier appellation with a wine growing history reaching back well over two thousand years. Like most of the wine regions of the Northern Rhone, Condrieu’s vines grow on extremely steep and narrow granite terraces. But what makes the region unique is a topsoil, locally called, “arzelle,” made of decomposed mica. This and a sheltering of the harsh northern winds, make optimal sites to produce opulent and brilliant Viognier. It is a tiny zone with no room for expansion and produces miniscule amounts of wine each year, contributing to its allure.
A fine Condrieu will have aromas and flavors suggestive of ripe stone fruit, lime peel, green almond, ginger, white flowers and toasted nuts. A honeyed smell may mislead you to think the wine will be sweet but the modern style favors totally dry on the palate. Its texture will be full and soft but a touch of mineral will provide great balance.