Gentilini Robola 2013
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The 2013 Robola is the unoaked version here, just bottled in December 2013. As time goes on, I become more impressed with the consistent excellence with this bottling from Gentilini. Admittedly very young (it was tasted in mid-March), this was quite tense on the lingering finish as it warmed. Nuanced with a touch of dried peach, a bit of pear and melon rind, it displays concentration, flavor and focus. As it warmed, it improved and evolved, demonstrating again why I think this winery has helped to convince people that there should be more Robola in the world. This will not impress with sweetness, ripe fruit, power or weight. It is simply unaffected and unadorned, with fresh, tank-aged purity laced with flavor on the finish. As impressive as it was on first tastes, it showed notably better the next day, even more vibrant and lively. It should hold decently for several years, might go longer, and might even improve with a year or so of cellaring. It is still nice to drink these fresh and young, however, so don’t hesitate to drink it this summer. At the price point, this is one of the nicest bargains in new-release Greek whites this issue. Drink now-2018
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There are hundreds of white grape varieties grown throughout the world. Some are indigenous specialties capable of producing excellent single varietal wines. Each has its own distinct viticultural characteristics, as well as aroma and flavor profiles.
A picturesque Mediterranean nation with a rich wine culture dating back to ancient times, Greece has so much more to offer than just retsina. Between the mainland and the country’s many islands, a wealth of Greek wine styles exists, made mostly from Greece’s plentiful indigenous varieties. After centuries of adversity after Ottoman rule, the modern Greek wine industry took off in the late 20th century with an influx of newly trained winemakers and investments in winemaking technology.
The climate—generally hot Mediterranean—can vary a bit with latitude and elevation, and is mostly moderated by cool maritime breezes. Drought can be an issue for Greek wine during the long, dry summers, sometimes necessitating irrigation.
Over 300 indigenous grapes have been identified throughout Greece, and though not all of them are suitable for wine production, future decades will likely see a significant revival and refinement of many of these native Greek wine varieties. Assyrtiko, the crisp, saline Greek wine variety of the island of Santorini, is one of the most important and popular white wine varieties, alongside Roditis, Robola, Moschofilero, and Malagousia. Muscat is also widely grown for both sweet and dry wines. Prominent red wine varieties include full-bodied and fruity Agiorghitiko, native to Nemea; Macedonia’s savory, tannic Xinomavro; and Mavrodaphne, used commonly to produce a Port-like fortified wine in the Peloponnese.