Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
Sliced pears and limes with some pear blossom aromas. Hints of fennel. Medium body. Pretty phenolics. Spicy and tangy finish. Some lemon zest. 60% in stainless with the rest in barrels. Uses some fruit from Alto Langa. Drink or hold.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The Gaja 2021 Langhe Alteni di Brassica is showing beautifully right now. This wine has seen a few tweaks over the years. In fact, the previous 2020 vintage already saw the introduction of some Alta Langa fruit (from the Gaja family's new vineyard and winery) in the blend. However, the base of the blend comes from old vines planted in 1983 in Serralunga d'Alba (in the Vigna Rionda). The Alta Langa fruit in this vintage measures 10%, but that number jumps to 30% in 2022. Giovanni Gaja tells me that "the raw part of the wine," or in other words, the citrusy side of the wine, is brought by the Alta Langa fruit. Winemaking and aging are an effort to protect the wine from oxygen, with racking only when necessary. The wine is matured on the lees in 60% stainless steel and 40% large oak botti. Sauvignon Blanc from Barbaresco tends to be delicate and floral, Sauvignon Blanc from Serralunga d'Alba is structured and Sauvignon Blanc from Alta Langa has the freshness and sharpness, says Giovanni Gaja.
Capable of a vast array of styles, Sauvignon Blanc is a crisp, refreshing variety that equally reflects both terroir and varietal character. Though it can vary depending on where it is grown, a couple of commonalities always exist—namely, zesty acidity and intense aromatics. This variety is of French provenance. Somm Secret—Along with Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc is a proud parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. That green bell pepper aroma that all three varieties share is no coincidence—it comes from a high concentration of pyrazines (herbaceous aromatic compounds) inherent to each member of the family.
Set upon a backdrop of the visually stunning Alps, the enchanting and rolling hills of Piedmont are the source of some of the country’s longest-lived and most sought-after red wines. Vineyards cover a great majority of the land area—especially in Barolo—with the most prized sites at the top hilltops or on south-facing slopes where sunlight exposure is maximized. Piedmont has a continental climate with hot, humid summers leading to cold winters and precipitation year-round. The reliable autumnal fog provides a cooling effect, especially beneficial for Nebbiolo, Piedmont’s most prestigious variety.
In fact, Nebbiolo is named exactly for the arrival of this pre-harvest fog (called “nebbia” in Italian), which prolongs cluster hang time and allows full phenolic balance and ripeness. Harvest of Nebbiolo is last among Piedmont's wine varieties, occurring sometime in October. This grape is responsible for the exalted Piedmont wines of Barbaresco and Barolo, known for their ageability, firm tannins and hallmark aromas of tar and roses. Nebbiolo wines, despite their pale hue, pack a pleasing punch of flavor and structure; the best examples can require about a decade’s wait before they become approachable. Barbaresco tends to be more elegant in style while Barolo is more powerful. Across the Tanaro River, the Roero region, and farther north, the regions of Gattinara and Ghemme, also produce excellent quality Nebbiolo.
Easy-going Barbera is the most planted grape in Piedmont, beloved for its trademark high acidity, low tannin and juicy red fruit. Dolcetto, Piedmont’s other important red grape, is usually ready within a couple of years of release.
White wines, while less ubiquitous here, should not be missed. Key Piedmont wine varieties include Arneis, Cortese, Timorasso, Erbaluce and the sweet, charming Muscat, responsible for the brilliantly recognizable, Moscato d'Asti.