Freeman Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir 2015
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From 2004 through 2015, Freeman made a vineyard-designated Pinot Noir from Keefer Ranch in the Russian River Valley. The Dutton family took over the management of this famous block in 2016, and we came up with a new name for it: KR Ranch. The property sits in the center of the Green Valley, located in the southern and western parts of the Russian River Valley. This area is much cooler than those at the appellation’s northern end, so it is ideally suited to growing Pinot Noir. The winter of 2016-2017 was one of the wettest on record, almost prompting us to worry that the Green Valley would wash out to sea. KR Ranch lies in an area that received more than 60 inches of rain in a four-month period! The vines relished the rain after four years of below-average rainfall, but cool May temperatures resulted in a lower-than-normal fruit set and a smaller yield.
The deeply colored 2017 KR Ranch Pinot Noir starts out quietly when you first open the bottle and takes several hours to evolve. The typical KR aromas of bright berries and roses emerge in the glass, along with a bit of mint and spice. Similar to the nose, the palate is lighter at first, but given some time, a medium body comes along with KR’s typical high acidity. The tannins are elevated in this young wine, and it should last for a good 10 years in the bottle, through 2028.
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This wine is especially lively and focused, driven by electric acidity, nervy tannins and intricate fruit and spice flavors. While full bodied, it's not a blockbuster yet gives plenty of excitement in terms of mint, red-cherry and cinnamon flavors and a bracing mouthfeel. It will no doubt age well for several years. Best after 2022.
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While the Russian River Valley is a large appellation with multiple climate zones and soil types, it is best known for cool-climate varieties, with Pinot Noir as the most celebrated. The grapes benefit from a reliable late afternoon flow of Pacific Ocean fog through the Petaluma Gap and along the Russian River Valley that ensures slow and steady ripening and the preservation of grape acidity. Today many of California’s most highly regarded Pinot Noir vineyards are in the Russian River Valley, along with its sub-appellation, Green Valley.
Historically Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs had bright red fruit and delicate earthy, mineral notes. But changes in viticultural and winemaking practices have led to stylistic changes in some of the region’s wines. Adjustments to canopy management, among other techniques, have resulted in riper fruit and bolder wines as well. These show flavors of black cherry, blackberry, cola, spice and darker, loamy earth tones, accenting traditional Pinot Noir notes of strawberry, raspberry and light cherry.