Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2009 Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon sees ten months aging in French oak of which 33% is new. It has an agreeable nose that takes coaxing from the glass: blackberry, boysenberry, a dash of peppermint and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet, sappy ripe tannins. There are crisp black cherries and red currant fruit at its core, a taut citric thread of acidity and a well-defined, elegant finish that is pleasingly fleshy and long. This is a well-crafted Cabernet from Mendoza.
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The legacy continued with Enzo Bianchi, his son, and Valentin “Tincho” Bianchi, his grandson –renowned enologists that moved forward with the founder’s work with just as much dedication until their winery was placed among the most prestigious in the country and around the world. For 80 years –and 4 generations – the values of a family who has embedded their name in Argentine winemaking have remained intact.
Argentina of course is heralded for its Malbecs. But in the last two decades Cabernet Sauvignon has been drawing increased attention from winemakers there, and is now the third most planted variety. It is grown in the Mendoza region in the Andean foothills, especially in Maipú and Luján de Cuyo, at altitudes between 2300 and 3100 feet. Here the climate is continental, with hot summers and cold winters. It is very dry and sometimes quite windy, with runoff from the snow-capped Andes providing irrigation. These Argentinian Cabernets offer dark fruit, spice notes, full body and often a voluptuous style.
Another source within Mendoza is the higher altitude Uco Valley, at 3300 to 5000 feet. Up at this level grapes ripen more slowly, despite the bright sun. But that enables them to develop bright acidity levels, giving the wines a fresh quality to go with intense fruit flavors. Another source of good Cabernet Sauvignon in Argentina is Cafayate, in the Calchaquí Valley. North of Mendoza, these vineyards are even higher, at about 5700 feet! These Cabernets carry notes of spice, herbs and menthol to go with dark fruit. Like those from Uco Valley, they show concentration and great vibrancy.
A few producers to look for are Catena, Viña Cobos, Pulenta and Altocedro. Salud!