Elvio Cogno Bricco Pernice Barolo 2013
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Wine Enthusiast
Forest floor, dried rose petal, new leather, star anise and menthol aromas align with a potpourri of dark cooking spice. The full-bodied yet linear palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed strawberry, licorice and aromatic herb set against taut, elegant tannins. Vibrant acidity lends balance, tension and an ageworthy structure.
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The 2013 growing season in Novello was one of the longest on record, starting out with a chilly spring followed by a mostly dry and sunny summer and then cool nights during harvest. The conditions were nearly ideal for the long, slow ripening of the nebbiolo in Bricco Pernice, a five-acre plot on a limestone-rich hilltop in the Ravera cru. Three-quarters of the vines are 50 years old, and after a green harvest during which vintner Valter Fissore drops as much as half the clusters, each vine produces just over two pounds of fruit. The result is a wine that’s concentrated yet balanced and elegant: The red cherry flavors are fresh and vibrant, coiled around dense, taut tannins and laced with notes of white pepper and cool mineral tones. This is an exciting wine to try now for its sheer power and energy, and one to revisit over the next two decades as it continues to evolve.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2013 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice is a true protagonist of this gorgeous vineyard site. A bright green canopy extends right up to the Elvio Cogno farmhouse on a gentle slope that rises upward all the way to the Novello ridge. Ravera sits in a beautiful amphitheater of vines. From a classic vintage, this wine is solid and firm in texture. The bouquet is already expressive, immediate and direct. It is bursting with dark fruit, smoke, spice and licorice. This Barolo shows all the qualities that will guarantee a long and successful cellar evolution. Only 4,000 bottles were made. The wine sees a 40-day fermentation and maceration time with submerged caps. It is aged in large Slavonian oak casks for 30 months.
Rating: 96+ -
Wine Spectator
Grounded by a beam of pure cherry, this red is wrapped in an embrace of dense, finely wrought tannins. Shows a licorice chewiness, along with sage and sandalwood notes that linger on the fresh aftertaste.
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The Cogno family has been making wine for four generations in Piedmont. In 1990, Elvio Cogno left a long and fruitful partnership with the venerable Barolo producer Marcarini at La Morra and bought a splendid, historic 18th-century farmhouse on the top of Bricco Ravera, a hill near Novello in the Langhe area. (Novello is one of the 11 communes in which Barolo is produced.) The farm was surrounded by 11 hectares (27.18 acres) of steeply sloped vineyards. Elvio restored the manor, converted the old granaries to wine cellars and founded his eponymous winery. For the next 20 years he devoted himself to the winemaking traditions handed down to him by his father and grandfather.
Elvio, in turn, has now passed the torch to his daughter, Nadia, and her husband, Valter Fissore, who has worked beside Elvio for 25 years. Following in the footsteps of Elvio the maestro, Elvio Cogno winery continues to produce elegant wines without altering the traditions, styles and flavors of the Langhe, with its breathtaking quilted landscape and unique grape varieties.
The Elvio Cogno winery sits at the top of Bricco Ravera, a hill near Novello in the Langhe area of Piedmont, one of the 11 communes in which Barolo is produced. Ravera is the finest cru of Novello, encircling the top of the hill and the winery, reaching a 380-meter (1,246-foot) elevation, with breathtaking views in all directions.
Attracting the most glory, prestige and fame to the Piedmont region, Nebbiolo in all of its expressions—Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Ghemme and Gattinara—creates a complex wine, truly unique for its delicate qualities combined with strength and a great potential to improve over time.
But Nebbiolo isn’t all there is to red wine from Piedmont! Barbera is the most planted variety and historically most popular as a dependable, food-friendly, everyday wine.
Beyond these two, a surprising number of red varieties call Piedmont their home. Worth a try include Dolcetto for its bold concentration and aromas of spice cake. Other grapes to investigate include Freisa, Croatina, Brachetto, Grignolino and Pelaverga.