Winemaker Notes
True to the wine's coastal origins, bright, effusive aromas of Bing cherry, rose petal, wild berries and graphite leap from the glass. In the style of the vintage, dark fruits predominate, and the wine is broad across the palate with beautiful purity and a balance of fruit, savory and structural elements. Vibrant acidity lends dimension and length. Drink this wine soon after release for its pinpoint focus and fruit intensity, or age it for seven to 10 years for heightened richness and softer texture. A really thrilling 2017 Pinot Noir.
Professional Ratings
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Jeb Dunnuck
Another Russian River release, the 2017 Pinot Noir Highland Divide comes primarily from the estate’s DuMol Vineyard as well as small amount from the Jentoft Vineyard. From Calera, Swan, and 943 clones and brought up in 45% new oak, its darker ruby color is followed by savory notes of black fruits, smoked earth, chocolate, and forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, it’s nicely concentrated, has plenty of elegance and purity, and a balanced profile that’s going to evolve nicely for at least a decade.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Pale to medium ruby-purple, the 2017 Pinot Noir Highland Divide has a pretty floral perfume with lavender, sage leaf, tree bark, amaro and underbrush with dried leaves and black berries at the core. Light to medium-bodied, it has a good fruit core sturdily framed with grainy tannins and great freshness, finishing lifted and energetic.
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Connoisseurs' Guide
A little lighter than its mates, but still a seriously tasty Russian River Pinot, the wine’s personality takes it into the black fruits and also features background whiffs of pine bark. It is bright on the palate with a slight tannic edge that gives backbone for the short-term and that will fall away with cellaring. Of the DuMOL bottlings currently on offer, this is the one that we would likely drink up before the others.
While the Russian River Valley is a large appellation with multiple climate zones and soil types, it is best known for cool-climate varieties, with Pinot Noir as the most celebrated. The grapes benefit from a reliable late afternoon flow of Pacific Ocean fog through the Petaluma Gap and along the Russian River Valley that ensures slow and steady ripening and the preservation of grape acidity. Today many of California’s most highly regarded Pinot Noir vineyards are in the Russian River Valley, along with its sub-appellation, Green Valley.
Historically Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs had bright red fruit and delicate earthy, mineral notes. But changes in viticultural and winemaking practices have led to stylistic changes in some of the region’s wines. Adjustments to canopy management, among other techniques, have resulted in riper fruit and bolder wines as well. These show flavors of black cherry, blackberry, cola, spice and darker, loamy earth tones, accenting traditional Pinot Noir notes of strawberry, raspberry and light cherry.