Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Wilfred Wong of Wine.com
I am hoping all you wine lovers out there, in one time in your life have enjoyed the pleasures of Morgon. Made from the Gamay grape and from one of the prestigious ten crus of Beaujolais, this wine often goes unnoticed by most of the wine drinking world. Yet this is one of the most solid appellations in France and this is one of the most consistent estates. For decades, the Georges Duboeuf Morgon from the Jean-Ernest Descombes estate has been one of Duboeuf's top wines. The 2014 is true to form- serious, firm and still slightly playful. I'd certainly invite a pairing with a grilled steak. Deep dark ruby in color; aromas of bold, ripe fruit, playing between boysenberries and smashed black fruits; medium bodied, fulfilling on the palate, soft and nicely ripened tannins; dry, medium acidity, well balanced; dark fruits fill the palate; medium finish, firm aftertaste. (Tasted: March 9, 2016, San Francisco, CA)
Delightfully playful, but also capable of impressive gravitas, Gamay is responsible for juicy, berry-packed wines. From Beaujolais, Gamay generally has three classes: Beaujolais Nouveau, a decidedly young, fruit-driven wine, Beaujolais Villages and Cru Beaujolais. The Villages and Crus are highly ranked grape growing communes whose wines are capable of improving with age whereas Nouveau, released two months after harvest, is intended for immediate consumption. Somm Secret—The ten different Crus have their own distinct personalities—Fleurie is delicate and floral, Côte de Brouilly is concentrated and elegant and Morgon is structured and age-worthy.
The bucolic region often identified as the southern part of Burgundy, Beaujolais actually doesn’t have a whole lot in common with the rest of the region in terms of climate, soil types and grape varieties. Beaujolais achieves its own identity with variations on style of one grape, Gamay.
Gamay was actually grown throughout all of Burgundy until 1395 when the Duke of Burgundy banished it south, making room for Pinot Noir to inhabit all of the “superior” hillsides of Burgundy proper. This was good news for Gamay as it produces a much better wine in the granitic soils of Beaujolais, compared with the limestone escarpments of the Côte d’Or.
Four styles of Beaujolais wines exist. The simplest, and one that has regrettably given the region a subpar reputation, is Beaujolais Nouveau. This is the Beaujolais wine that is made using carbonic maceration (a quick fermentation that results in sweet aromas) and is released on the third Thursday of November in the same year as harvest. It's meant to drink young and is flirty, fruity and fun. The rest of Beaujolais is where the serious wines are found. Aside from the wines simply labelled, Beaujolais, there are the Beaujolais-Villages wines, which must come from the hilly northern part of the region, and offer reasonable values with some gems among them. The superior sections are the cru vineyards coming from ten distinct communes: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly. Any cru Beajolais will have its commune name prominent on the label.