Duboeuf Morgon Jean-Ernest Descombes 2004 Front Label
Duboeuf Morgon Jean-Ernest Descombes 2004 Front Label

Winemaker Notes

The story behind a wine often mirrors very closely that of an individual. Take, for example, Jean Ernest Descombes, an immensely engaging figure of our Beaujolais region, high-spirited, always ready to have a good time. He succeeded in creating one of the finest estates in Morgon, his wine, to which he offered 30 years of intense devotion. He was forever welcoming to his cellar journalists and wine professionals, so they could savor some of his fantastic wines. Those who met this unusual man will never forget him. An extraordinary grower, he deployed his talents in the vineyards as well as in winemaking. Three-fourths of his vines are more than 50 years old, planted in the choicest locations, such as the favored climats of Le Py, La Roche Pillée, Les Pillets and Bellevue. The amazing wines produced at this estate have garnered an impressive list of awards. After Jean Ernest's departure to the vineyards of paradise in October 1993, his daughter Nicole took over, with an enthusiasm that would have warmed her father's heart. In tribute, she likes to say that the personality of a wine always conjurs up the person who made it. Her father's Morgon is anything but an exception to this axiom. How fascinating is the destiny that links, in the course of a lifetime, man to wine, mortal to immortal, Mozart to music, Michelangelo to art. Such blissful encounters reflect flashes of eternity on those fortunate to be near.

This first-class Morgon shows perfect balance and a sumptuous bouquet of black currant, plum, violets and old fashioned roses. Elegantly smooth on the palate, revealing several layers of fresh red berries, especially cherries. The silky, prolonged finish signals completely ripened fruit.

Food pairings: Beef Wellington, venison, festive dinners

Georges Duboeuf

Georges Duboeuf

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Delightfully playful, but also capable of impressive gravitas, Gamay is responsible for juicy, berry-packed wines. From Beaujolais, Gamay generally has three classes: Beaujolais Nouveau, a decidedly young, fruit-driven wine, Beaujolais Villages and Cru Beaujolais. The Villages and Crus are highly ranked grape growing communes whose wines are capable of improving with age whereas Nouveau, released two months after harvest, is intended for immediate consumption. Somm Secret—The ten different Crus have their own distinct personalities—Fleurie is delicate and floral, Côte de Brouilly is concentrated and elegant and Morgon is structured and age-worthy.

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The bucolic region often identified as the southern part of Burgundy, Beaujolais actually doesn’t have a whole lot in common with the rest of the region in terms of climate, soil types and grape varieties. Beaujolais achieves its own identity with variations on style of one grape, Gamay.

Gamay was actually grown throughout all of Burgundy until 1395 when the Duke of Burgundy banished it south, making room for Pinot Noir to inhabit all of the “superior” hillsides of Burgundy proper. This was good news for Gamay as it produces a much better wine in the granitic soils of Beaujolais, compared with the limestone escarpments of the Côte d’Or.

Four styles of Beaujolais wines exist. The simplest, and one that has regrettably given the region a subpar reputation, is Beaujolais Nouveau. This is the Beaujolais wine that is made using carbonic maceration (a quick fermentation that results in sweet aromas) and is released on the third Thursday of November in the same year as harvest. It's meant to drink young and is flirty, fruity and fun. The rest of Beaujolais is where the serious wines are found. Aside from the wines simply labelled, Beaujolais, there are the Beaujolais-Villages wines, which must come from the hilly northern part of the region, and offer reasonable values with some gems among them. The superior sections are the cru vineyards coming from ten distinct communes: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly. Any cru Beajolais will have its commune name prominent on the label.

GLO6912715_2004 Item# 89185