Winemaker Notes
A very old and famous site, splendidly located on a steep southern slope. The vines grow under extreme conditions in weathered volcanic porphyry soil. The stony ground heats quickly during the day, and that warmth produces characteristic Rieslings with a racy fruitiness and mineral acidity, internationally recognized for their distinctive flinty aromas.
Professional Ratings
-
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Dönnhoff's 2021 Felsenberg GG is pure, bright and flinty on the deep, intense and iodine nose that also reveals phenolic complexity. Full-bodied but refined and elegant on the plate, this is a balanced and light-footed, rich and dense Felsenberg with juicy fruit and crystalline acidity, whereas the tannins step back compared to the Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg. The finish is rich yet refined and saline, with delicate lemon bitters and lush fruit. Although the 2021 is already charming, the wine needs some years on the bottle to show all its complexity and finesse without its youthful charm. This is not an austere wine that needs to soften its edges; it's already dangerously good or even too good to cause patience. But the wine will reward those who can wait.
-
James Suckling
A rough diamond that is harder than almost anything else in the known universe! Radically stony and quite smoky, too. Ample body with ripe acidity that’s not at all pointed, yet this is a pretty austere wine with enormous drive at the bold finish.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
