Winemaker Notes
Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg (volcanic porphyry and decomposed melphyr) is a very old and very famous site, directly on the Nahe river. It’s extraordinarily steep and the soil here is pure volcanic: “you can see that there is almost no topsoil here; we have to promote humus with hay and other organic material” says Cornelius.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
If you are a terroir fundamentalist, then this enormous depth of smoky and wild-herb character will light your fire, but otherwise approach with caution. With the second and third sip you feel the attractive, grapefruity side of the wine. Then comes the paradox. There is also a touch of grapefruit-pith bitterness at the radically mineral finish, and this adds to the excitement. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Dönnhoff's 2021 Felsenberg GG is pure, bright and flinty on the deep, intense and iodine nose that also reveals phenolic complexity. Full-bodied but refined and elegant on the plate, this is a balanced and light-footed, rich and dense Felsenberg with juicy fruit and crystalline acidity, whereas the tannins step back compared to the Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg. The finish is rich yet refined and saline, with delicate lemon bitters and lush fruit. Although the 2021 is already charming, the wine needs some years on the bottle to show all its complexity and finesse without its youthful charm. This is not an austere wine that needs to soften its edges; it's already dangerously good or even too good to cause patience. But the wine will reward those who can wait. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
