Domane Wachau Federspiel Terrassen Riesling 2014
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
The Domäne Wachau is situated in the heart of the Wachau Valley, one of Europe’s oldest cultural landscapes. Led by winery director and Master of Wine Roman Horvath and winemaker Heinz Frischengruber, Domäne Wachau counts among the leading wine producers in Austria. The winery is based in the picturesque medieval town of Dürnstein. The region offers perfect conditions and unique terroir for growing outstanding wines. An extremely cool, marginal climate imbues elegance and finesse. Steep terraced hillside vineyards are the foundation for extremely low yields that guarantee structure and complexity.
Teamwork is the very essence of Domäne Wachau. The experienced and passionate vintner families of Domäne Wachau cultivate their vineyards according to strict quality criteria, following a complex, sustainable and environmentally conscious cultivation programme: green cover is planted between the vines, biodiversity is promoted and canopy management is carefully adjusted to each year’s weather conditions. The physical demands are enormous; the steep vineyards usually allow only manual labour and the dry stone walls, which have marked the landscape for generations, must be maintained.
Heinz Frischengruber and his team vinify the handpicked grapes with as little intervention as possible. The result is a unique range of authentic and elegant wines that reflect the diversity of the Wachau terroir, grape varieties and the famous Wachau single-vineyards.
As Austria’s most prestigious wine growing region, the landscape of the Wachau is—not surprisingly—one of its most dramatic. Millions of years ago, the Danube River chiseled its way through the earth, creating steep terraces of decomposed volcanic and metamorphic rock. Harsh Ice Age winds brought deposits of ancient glacial dust and loess to the terrace’s eastern faces. Today these steep surfaces of nutrient-poor and fast draining soil are home to some of Austria’s very best sites for both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.
Wachau is small, comprising a mere three percent of Austria’s vine surface and, considering relatively low yields, represents a miniscule proportion of total wine production. Diurnal temperature shifts in Wachau facilitate great balance of sugar and phenolic ripeness in its grapes. At night cold air from the Alps and forests in the northwest displace warm afternoon air, which gets sucked upstream along the Danube.
Its sites are actually so varied and distinct that more emphasis is going into vineyard-designated offerings even despite grape variety. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are most prominent, but the region produces Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Zweigelt among other local variants.
A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining easily identifiable typicity. This versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Riesling is best known in Germany and Alsace, and is also of great importance in Austria. The variety has also been particularly successful in Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys, New Zealand, Washington, cooler regions of California, and the Finger Lakes region of New York.
In the Glass
Riesling typically produces wine with relatively low alcohol, high acidity, steely minerality and stone fruit, spice, citrus and floral notes. At its ripest, it leans towards juicy peach, nectarine and pineapple, while cooler climes produce Rieslings redolent of meyer lemon, lime and green apple. With age, Riesling can become truly revelatory, developing unique, complex aromatics, often with a hint of petrol.
Riesling is quite versatile, enjoying the company of sweet-fleshed fish like sole, most Asian food, especially Thai and Vietnamese (bottlings with some residual sugar and low alcohol are the perfect companions for dishes with substantial spice) and freshly shucked oysters. Sweeter styles work well with fruit-based desserts.
It can be difficult to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling, and German labeling laws do not make things any easier. Look for the world “trocken” to indicate a dry wine, or “halbtrocken” or “feinherb” for off-dry. Some producers will include a helpful sweetness scale on the back label—happily, a growing trend.