Winemaker Notes
Vougeot has close affinities with its illustrious near neighbors (Clos de Vougeot, Musigny, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses). Its color is between crimson and purple - deep, dark and luminous. It develops aromas of violet and small fruits (Morello cherry, blackcurrant). When older, it leans towards underbrush, fallen leaves and truffle over animal notes. In the mouth, it has a four-sided structure but its tannins are nonetheless delicate. The attack is straightforward, acidity and chewiness are harmoniously balanced, and the finish often carries a hint of licorice.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
A perfumed nose of sour cherries, wild strawberries, redcurrants, rhubarb, leaves, bark and sweet spices. Medium-bodied with fine, tightly knit tannins and bright acidity. Precise and harmonious. Very fine, savory and seamless with layers of wild berries, spices and a touch of cocoa. Vibrant, lengthy finish.
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Wine Spectator
This red has already settled in with some gamy, truffle and spice tones to the core of black cherry, plum and earth flavors. Rich and supple, with juiciness midpalate and terrific length.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Containing the largest Grand Cru in all of the Côte d’Or, Vougeot, the village, takes its name from the small stream flowing through it, called Vouge. Over three quarters of the village retains Grand Cru status, and a single vineyard at that: Clos de Vougeot (or simply, Clos Vougeot). Its mass—over 50 ha—retains the single name chiefly for historic reasons.
But today, Clos de Vougeot contains over 80 owners and shows significant soil and slope variations within its boundaries. The top, bordering Musigny and Grands Echezeaux, is calcareous and gravelly on oolitic limestone and exhibits wonderful drainage. The middle sections are limestone, gravel and clay with less of a slope. The lower part has little slant and is mostly made of clay. Historically the diverse parcels were blended but today the abundance of owners means that everyone has his own style. Exploring and understanding them is part of the allure of Clos de Vougeot.
In general a fine Clos de Vougeot when young will be dense and dark but juicy, with a pronounced austerity, and needs a good ten years to bring it to its full potential.