Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Decanter
The wine has a voluptuous, dark blackberry fruit, with exotic spice notes and a dense, velvety texture. Notably rich in extract and length, this 2020 is a standout, even for what is a consistently impressive wine. The domaine parcel of nearly a hectare is at the northeast corner of this premier cru, next to Taillepieds and just across the street from the intersection of Champans and Cailleret - Frédéric Lafarge maintains it partakes of all these characters.
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Jasper Morris
Medium to deep purple with a lighter rim. Tight on the nose, potentially complex, one of the earlier picked wines. There is a slight earthiness, but much lighter than in Clos du Château. The weight of fruit and the balance particularly at the back of the palate are spectacular.
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Vinous
The 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes ler Cru has a pretty nose with airy redcurrant and crushed strawberry fruit. It is not complex, though it conveys a sense of Pinoté. Returning to my glass, it begins to blossom, though it keeps its foot on the brake. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and well-judged acidity.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
On the hillsides between Pommard and Meursault, Volnay is one of two villages in the Côte de Beaune of Burgundy that is recognized for its extraordinary Pinot Noir. Pommard is the other; the rest of the villages are most known for some of the most exceptional Chardonnay in the world. While Volnay Pinot Noir tends to be light in color and more delicate than that of Pommard, they typically stand on par with each other in regards to quality and demand.
Volnay can’t claim any Grands Crus vineyards but more than half of it has achieved Premier Cru status. Volnay Premiers Crus vineyards stretch across the entire village from northeast to southwest, abutting and actually falling “into” Meursault. Where they merge is a vineyard called Les Santenots. Pinot Noir grows in this Meursault Premier Cru but since that village is most associated with stellar whites, the Pinot Noir from Les Santenots, takes the name Volnay Santenots. Immediately above it are Volnay’s other prized Premier Cru, Le Cailleret, Champans, Clos des Chênes and Le Cailleret.
Volnay Pinot Noir are earthy with red or blue fruit. Aromas such as smoke, herbs, forest, cocoa and spice are common and on the palate they are gorgeous and concentrated with finesse but won’t truly charm you without some age.