Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Champans Premier Cru 2010
The estate crafts highly aromatic wines full of complexity and aging potential. Fruit for ‘Champans’ comes from a growing site and produces this pure and elegant wine, which is noted with flavors of fresh red fruit, tart plums, forest floor, and crushed rocks.
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
The 2010 Volnay Taillepieds is all about inner tension and vibrancy. The aromas and flavors ring out with incredible clarity. Time in the glass allows the fruit to emerge to some degree, but this is another 2010 that is defined by its focused minerality. Simply put, the Taillepieds is striking from start to finish.
The 2010 Volnay Taillepieds 1er Cru is much deeper in color than the Champans served alongside. Likewise the bouquet offers darker and perhaps more sullen, introspective fruit: blackberry and bilberry, hints of orange pith and a subtle marine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, slightly briny in style with a structured and tightly wound finish that just lacks the same joie-de-vivre as the Champans. It is a very impressive Volnay but it may be enduring a sulky phase.
On the hillsides between Pommard and Meursault, Volnay is one of two villages in the Côte de Beaune that is recognized for its extraordinary Pinot Noir. Pommard is the other; the rest of the villages are most known for some of the most exceptional Chardonnay in the world. While Volnay Pinot Noir tends to be light in color and more delicate than that of Pommard, they typically stand on par with each other in regards to quality and demand.
Volnay can’t claim any Grands Crus vineyards but more than half of it has achieved Premier Cru status. Volnay Premiers Crus vineyards stretch across the entire village from northeast to southwest, abutting and actually falling “into” Meursault. Where they merge is a vineyard called Les Santenots. Pinot Noir grows in this Meursault Premier Cru but since that village is most associated with stellar whites, the Pinot Noir from Les Santenots, takes the name Volnay Santenots. Immediately above it are Volnay’s other prized Premier Cru, Le Cailleret, Champans, Clos des Chênes and Le Cailleret.
Volnay Pinot Noir are earthy with red or blue fruit. Aromas such as smoke, herbs, forest, cocoa and spice are common and on the palate they are gorgeous and concentrated with finesse but won’t truly charm you without some age.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”