Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
A highlight in this phase of Bouley's career is the 2008 Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers, a deep and fleshy wine that exhibits aromas of sweet berries, orange rind, raw cocoa, rich soil tones and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with its bright spine of acidity cloaked in vibrant fruit, it's seamless and complete, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. Thomas feels that he lost a touch of aromatic precision due to the impact of used barrels that he hadn't cleaned as rigorously as he does today, but it's still a superb effort. In 2008, he hedged his vines very late in the growing season and began using less sulfur dioxide at cuvaison.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Representing some of the darkest, deepest and sturdiest Pinot Noir of Burgundy, Pommard is one of the two villages in Côte de Beaune—along with Volnay—that is recognized for its impressive Pinot Noir. While it can’t boast any Grands Crus vineyards, its extraordinary Premiers Crus vineyards are aplenty.
Les Pézerolles, Les Épenots, Clos des Épeneaux, Les Chanlins, Les Jarolières, Les Fremiers and particularly Les Rugiens are among the most outstanding Premiers Crus.
The best Pommards will be concentrated in flavors such as black cherry, blackberry and dark chocolate, have dazzling aromas of violets, menthol or wild herbs and a firm and powerful finish. They typically demand some time in the bottle to reach their peak.