Winemaker Notes
The influence of the Morey terroir gives frankness, firmness and the more earthy character. Then there is the aromatic spectrum of red fruit berries which dominates in Chambolle, blended with more mineral nuances and sometimes hints of forest floor undergrowth. Bonnes Mares can accompany more "powerful" dishes than other Chambolle wines, such as meats cooked in sauce or game. This wine will require a minimum of 5 to10 years aging.
Professional Ratings
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Decanter
Fred Mugnier's Bonnes Mares comes mostly from white soils and is among the freshest and most elegant expressions of the grand cru - this may explain why it's poured before Les Amoureuses at the domaine. This is true to type, even in a warm year, showing fine red berry aromas, fine-grained tannins and just a whisper of pepper spice.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is also showing brilliantly from bottle, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, wild berries and plums mingled with notions of peonies, grilled squab, spices and musk. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with good concentration and ripe acids, framed by an ample endowment of fine, powdery tannin that renders this more structured than the corresponding Amoureuses but not in any sense more austere. While this is quite charming and expressive for young Bonnes Mares, at least a decade's patience will be warranted.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Chambolle-Musigny represents the charm of the Côte de Nuits district of Burgundy. But you’ll find that term mainly in reference to the vineyards in its southern stretches, which border Clos Vougeot: the Grand Cru of Le Musingy and in part, its neighboring and most exceptional Premier Cru, Les Amoureuses. Some producers argue for the primacy of Les Amoureuses and its eligibility for Grand Cru status given its wines can sometimes surpass other Grands Crus.
Le Musigny ranks on par with the most acclaimed Grands Crus for Pinot Noir: Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, Richebourg, Chambertin, and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. It is also the only Grand Cru in Côte de Nuits for Chardonnay. All of the others are in Côte de Beaune.
This village can in fact claim only two Grands Crus vineyards and—in the context of breaking down the minutiae—they are markedly different. Bonnes-Mares, the other one at the far northern end above the village, bordering Morey-St-Denis, offers power, strength and great aging potential. But Chambolle-Musigny includes a nice handful of exceptional Premiers Crus, as noted above with Les Amoureuses as the finest. Le Fuees and Les Cras are other noteworthy Premiers Crus.
Overall, a top Chambolle-Musigny offers pure aromas of violets, dark cherry and damp earth, coupled with a velvety elegance, supple mid-palate, an abundance of black and red berry, and finesse and power through a long and fine-grained finish.