Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Wine & Spirits
Yiannis Economou takes a hands-off approach to winemaking at his cellar in Ziros, at the eastern end of Crete, preferring no inputs in the vineyard or winery, letting his wines tell him when they are ready to be released. That’s how this blend of thrapsathiri and vilana has come into the market at five years old, when the color has deepened to an orange gold. It tastes like something that may have been made in medieval times, with its mix of honeyed nuts and salty spice, orange peels and tea. But what it most tastes of is stone, cool and firm. For chicken bisteeya or other complex dishes.
With hundreds of white grape varieties to choose from, winemakers have the freedom to create a virtually endless assortment of blended white wines. In many European regions, strict laws are in place determining the set of varieties that may be used in white wine blends, but in the New World, experimentation is permitted and encouraged. Blending can be utilized to enhance balance or create complexity, lending different layers of flavors and aromas. For example, a variety that creates a soft and full-bodied white wine blend, like Chardonnay, would do well combined with one that is more fragrant and naturally high in acidity. Sometimes small amounts of a particular variety are added to boost color or aromatics. Blending can take place before or after fermentation, with the latter, more popular option giving more control to the winemaker over the final qualities of the wine.
As one of Greece’s largest island’s, its wines enjoyed high glory during the Middle Ages. Today Crete is full of ambitious winemakers with the city of Heraklion as its viticultural hub.