Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Jasper Morris
Rich dense purple. Gorgeously attractive if a little more restrained than the Clos St-Denis. Some of the traditional blueberry. So much in reserve. I prefer the weave of the texture here especially if keeping for the longer term. On the cusp of red and black fruit at the finish, and with excellent persistence.Barrel Sample: (96-98)
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Decanter
The 2022 Clos de la Roche from Dujac is a wine of impressive concentration, even if it is not so loveable at this point. It seems (along with the Clos Saint-Denis) to be a bit austere, but a ripe, plummy fruit opens up on the palate with nuances of smoke, earth and spice. Despite the slight austerity at this stage, this is impressively long, powerful, and nuanced, and one imagines sweet fruit will develop with time. The grapes are from their six parcels scattered throughout the climat, accounting for almost two hectares; the wine is now doing its second winter ageing in cask.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
While Morey-St-Denis of Burgundy might not get the same attention as its neighbors, Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, there is no reason why it shouldn’t. The same line of limestone runs from the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey—all the way through Morey—ending in Chambolle.
There are four grand cru vineyards, moving southwards from the border with Gevrey-Chambertin: Clos de la Roche, Clos St-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart and a small segment of Bonnes-Mares overlapping from Chambolle. Clos de la Roche is probably the finest vineyard, giving wines of true depth, body, and sturdiness for the long haul than most other vineyards.
Pinot Noir from Morey-St-Denis is known for its deep red cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit. Aromas of spice, licorice and purple flowers are present in the wines’ youth, evolving to forest and game as the wine ages.