Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole 2017  Front Label
Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole 2017  Front LabelDomaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole 2017  Front Bottle Shot

Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole 2017

  • V98
  • D96
  • RP95
  • BH94
750ML / 0% ABV
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Winemaker Notes

The profile of the 2017 vintage shows a great level of elegance and freshness, compared to the 2016 which was more defined by structure and concentration. The 2017 Clos de Tart shows beautiful depth, with complex aromas which transition from red fruits to black as the wine aerates. Ethereal floral notes of violets and rose carry with the long palate of silky, delicate tannins. The wine is supported by the terroir’s signature frame of great precision, in line with the best years produced at the Domaine.

Critical Acclaim

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V 98
Vinous
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was matured in around 80% new oak, the barrels toasted chauff blonde. Jacques Desvauges mentioned that the wine needed oxygen ingress during maturation that only new oak can give. I tasted the component parts (as usual) as well as the blend. This has a very detailed, delineated bouquet offering mainly black fruit mixed with sous-bois, tobacco, clove and bay leaf, the typicité of the appellation showing through nicely. It feels very succinct and yet so fresh. The palate is beautifully balanced on the entry with a killer line of acidity. Pure black cherry fruit is joined by bilberry, hints of black olive and a marine/oyster shell tincture that comes through quite strongly toward the persistent, saline finish, which fans out with confidence. This is a brilliant follow-up to the benchmark 2016 by Jacques Desvauges and his team.
Barrel Sample: 96-98
D 96
Decanter
Despite what has been written about high yields in the Côte de Nuits in 2017, Jacques de Vauges made less Clos de Tart than he did in 2016. Picked much earlier than it used to be when Sylvain Pitiot was in charge, this is a fine, focussed, nuanced wine that expresses the complexity of this monopole grand cru. With deftly integrated 60% whole bunches and 80% new wood, it's elegant, floral and precise with chalky freshness.
RP 95
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a decided success, wafting from the glass with fragrant aromas of orange rind, raspberries, wild berries and peonies that are complemented by deeper-pitched nuances of grilled game, cinnamon and spicy soil tones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with an open, giving profile this year despite its excellent concentration and fleshy core, concluding with a tangy, saline finish. Tasting several barrels of the different components, which had been held back when the assemblage was made, was in a sense more revealing than trying the final blend, since the latter had been racked and sulfited. Once again, Jacques Desvauges used appreciable percentages of whole cluster and matured the wine in 80% new oak.
Barrel Sample: 93-95
BH 94
Burghound.com
A much more floral-inflected nose is equally fresh and ripe with a broader range of spice elements adding breadth to the pretty red and blue pinot fruit aromas. The caressing and wonderfully vibrant medium-bodied flavors possess notably better mid-palate density before concluding in a lingering, balanced and much more complex finale. I like the focused and drive of the finish, indeed this could aptly be described as a wine that delivers power without weight.
Barrel Sample: 91-94
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Morey-St-Denis Wine

Cote de Nuits, Burgundy

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While Morey-St-Denis might not get the same attention as its neighbors, Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, there is no reason why it shouldn’t. The same line of limestone runs from the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey—all the way through Morey—ending in Chambolle.

There are four grand cru vineyards, moving southwards from the border with Gevrey-Chambertin: Clos de la Roche, Clos St-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart and a small segment of Bonnes-Mares overlapping from Chambolle. Clos de la Roche is probably the finest vineyard, giving wines of true depth, body, and sturdiness for the long haul than most other vineyards.

Pinot Noir from Morey-St-Denis is known for its deep red cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit. Aromas of spice, licorice and purple flowers are present in the wines’ youth, evolving to forest and game as the wine ages.

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Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”

EISCDT_2017 Item# 538678

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