Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2006 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has a deep, intense nose with plenty of dark berry fruit (blackberry and boysenberry), mixed with cedar and licorice scents. Saturnine at first, it responds to aeration, opening up with minimal encouragement and gaining more and more intensity. The palate is what you might call a bold and brassy style of Clos de Tart - upfront fruit, muscular, forthright tannin and enormous depth on the finish that fans out gloriously. Think of a blast of trumpets in the Albert Hall and you've got this wine. Immense!
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
While Morey-St-Denis of Burgundy might not get the same attention as its neighbors, Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, there is no reason why it shouldn’t. The same line of limestone runs from the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey—all the way through Morey—ending in Chambolle.
There are four grand cru vineyards, moving southwards from the border with Gevrey-Chambertin: Clos de la Roche, Clos St-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart and a small segment of Bonnes-Mares overlapping from Chambolle. Clos de la Roche is probably the finest vineyard, giving wines of true depth, body, and sturdiness for the long haul than most other vineyards.
Pinot Noir from Morey-St-Denis is known for its deep red cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit. Aromas of spice, licorice and purple flowers are present in the wines’ youth, evolving to forest and game as the wine ages.