Winemaker Notes
The 2022 Pommard 1er cru Les Rugiens delivers a splendid nose of black cherry and raspberry highlighted by a hint of tobacco. This same intensity lingers in the mouth with a concentration of suave and vibrant aromas that are in complete harmony with the texture and the power of this remarkably long wine.
Professional Ratings
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Jasper Morris
100% whole bunch vinification. Heady dense purple, with a significant intensity of fruit. This should be quite special from the first sniff. This is really intense, with a backbone that lends a crispness to the finish. Brian was keen not to overdo the 2022s and they will continue to gain weight from here. I think this will prove to be a great Pommard Rugiens. Drink from 2032.
Barrel Sample: 94-96 -
Decanter
The Rugiens-Bas was always a favourite of Hubert de Montille, who crafted the wine in a tannic, concentrated style. Under his son Etienne and technical director Brian Sieve, he delivers a more modern-style, approachable, yet substantial wine. This wine makes a strong impression with its aromas of black plum, mulberry, and hints of smoke and earth. The texture is full-bodied and tannic, but the robust structure is managed well. The grapes from their hectare of vines in the best part of Rugiens-Bas are fermented as whole clusters and aged in cask (40% new).
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Representing some of the darkest, deepest and sturdiest Pinot Noir of Burgundy, Pommard is one of the two villages in Côte de Beaune—along with Volnay—that is recognized for its impressive Pinot Noir. While it can’t boast any Grands Crus vineyards, its extraordinary Premiers Crus vineyards are aplenty.
Les Pézerolles, Les Épenots, Clos des Épeneaux, Les Chanlins, Les Jarolières, Les Fremiers and particularly Les Rugiens are among the most outstanding Premiers Crus.
The best Pommards will be concentrated in flavors such as black cherry, blackberry and dark chocolate, have dazzling aromas of violets, menthol or wild herbs and a firm and powerful finish. They typically demand some time in the bottle to reach their peak.