Winemaker Notes
The appelation "Les Rugiens" is special. It is composed of two parts: "Les Rugiens Hauts" and "Les Rugiens-Bas". The bottom and best part, "Les Rugiens-Bas", produces exceptional quality. It is a Premier Cru that has the touch and the wherewithall of a Grand Cru.
Composed of 5.83 hectares, it takes its name from its red-colored clay that contains iron oxide. Domaine de Montille is the largest owner of "Les Rugiens-Bas" with two parcels that together have a surface area of 1.02 hectares.
Amongst other factors, the quality of the clay and the presence of iron gives to this cru an incomparable power and a distinctiveness in the Côte de Beaune. Powerful, elegant and complete, this wine expresses an additional dimension between all of its components, including complexity, profoundness and longevity.
Professional Ratings
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Decanter
When people think of a classic Pommard, they invariably point to Les Rugiens-Bas, widely regarded as the village's Grand Cru in waiting. This is a structured, savoury, typically ferrous expression of the terroir that sees 66% whole clusters and 40% new wood. Firm yet not rustic in the slightest, it has lots of spicy weight and damson and red fruit intensity.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Representing some of the darkest, deepest and sturdiest Pinot Noir of Burgundy, Pommard is one of the two villages in Côte de Beaune—along with Volnay—that is recognized for its impressive Pinot Noir. While it can’t boast any Grands Crus vineyards, its extraordinary Premiers Crus vineyards are aplenty.
Les Pézerolles, Les Épenots, Clos des Épeneaux, Les Chanlins, Les Jarolières, Les Fremiers and particularly Les Rugiens are among the most outstanding Premiers Crus.
The best Pommards will be concentrated in flavors such as black cherry, blackberry and dark chocolate, have dazzling aromas of violets, menthol or wild herbs and a firm and powerful finish. They typically demand some time in the bottle to reach their peak.