Winemaker Notes
The bunches are picked at an extremely high level of ripeness. They are destemmed and pressed very slowly and gently. The must is settled and fermented in old epoxy tanks with indigenous yeasts. The cellar is cold and the sugars high, so the fermentation can take up to two years--malolactic fermentation occurs naturally during the alcoholic fermentation--and never finishes without a few grams of residual sugar. The wine is aged further in tank and then bottled with a light, non-sterile filtration and then aged at least two more years in bottle before release. Sulfur usage is minimal. Bongran is unfailingly rich in flavor and texture with firm minerality, beautifully Burgundian in a very old-fashioned way.
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The just-released 2019 Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet is showing nicely, unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange confit, honeycomb, pear and baking spices. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it's dense and layered, with bright acids and a charming, suave style despite its concentration. Aromatically, it's still a touch reserved and will really reward a few more years of bottle age. Rating: 93+
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Vinous
The 2019 Viré-Clessé had just been racked on my visit, therefore there was so much gas in this wine, as expected. Nevertheless, there is already fine balance and harmony, a keen line of acidity with a lovely spicy finish that lingers in the mouth. It’s a work in progress, but there is plenty of potential here.
Barrel Sample: 90-92
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
Inhabiting the best of the upper half of the Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé, created from the delineation of the two top Mâcon Villages, produces lively, charming and full-bodied whites (of Chardonnay). Lemon balm, verbena, white peach, and mint evolve with graceful age to quince jam, spice, pine and brown butter. The aromatic intensity of Viré-Clessé suits itself to herb-laden poultry, as well as sautéed shrimp or vegetables. It is also the perfect partner to Camembert or goat cheese.