Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017
- Decanter
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Robert
Parker
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The terroir here has more red clay (where Morey has more marl and limestone) for a more velvety-textured, rounder wine, with characteristic aromas of violets and wildflowers.
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Decanter
The de Vogüé Bonnes Mares comes from a sizeable 2.7ha on red clay soils and is always the most structured and ‘masculine’ of the domaine's wines. It's dark and intense, with violet and blueberry scents, a plush, concentrated palate, stylish 35% new wood and the depth and concentration to age. Rich and very appealing. Read more at https://www.decanter.com/wine-
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is also unusually saturated in hue this year, though Millet reports having done no more pigeage than usual. Offering up aromas of dark cherries, wild berries, cassis, dark chocolate, peony and caramelized orange rind, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and elegantly fine boned, with chalky structuring tannins, a pure core of fruit and a long, fragrant finish. Despite its disconcertingly deep hue this is one of the most supple, elegant renditions of the de Vogüé Bonnes Mares in the last decade.
Barrel Sample: 92-94
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Robert
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Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue is inextricably linked to the Grand Cru vineyard of Musigny, considered by many the pinnacle of Pinot Noir. Until 1936 the vineyard was conveniently split into just two climates--a narrow east-west track splitting the climate of Le Musigny from the more southerly and slightly smaller Les Petits-Musigny. The domaine ranks among the very best Burgundy houses.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Chambolle-Musigny represents the charm of the Côte de Nuits district of Burgundy. But you’ll find that term mainly in reference to the vineyards in its southern stretches, which border Clos Vougeot: the Grand Cru of Le Musingy and in part, its neighboring and most exceptional Premier Cru, Les Amoureuses. Some producers argue for the primacy of Les Amoureuses and its eligibility for Grand Cru status given its wines can sometimes surpass other Grands Crus.
Le Musigny ranks on par with the most acclaimed Grands Crus for Pinot Noir: Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, Richebourg, Chambertin, and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. It is also the only Grand Cru in Côte de Nuits for Chardonnay. All of the others are in Côte de Beaune.
This village can in fact claim only two Grands Crus vineyards and—in the context of breaking down the minutiae—they are markedly different. Bonnes-Mares, the other one at the far northern end above the village, bordering Morey-St-Denis, offers power, strength and great aging potential. But Chambolle-Musigny includes a nice handful of exceptional Premiers Crus, as noted above with Les Amoureuses as the finest. Le Fuees and Les Cras are other noteworthy Premiers Crus.
Overall, a top Chambolle-Musigny offers pure aromas of violets, dark cherry and damp earth, coupled with a velvety elegance, supple mid-palate, an abundance of black and red berry, and finesse and power through a long and fine-grained finish.