Winemaker Notes
With its three hectares of 85-year-old Chardonnay, the Clos des Rocs produces a Pouilly-Loché like no other. Its due-easterly exposition allows for optimal ripeness, and its iron-streaked calcareous topsoil extends a mere 30 centimeters before reaching limestone mother-rock. Aged 13 months in used barrels, this wine—in true grand-cru-like fashion—synthesizes the positive attributes of all its cellarmates: gleaming acidity, fine but tunneling minerality, and stunning concentration. With their low levels of sulfur and their open-knit generosity, Olivier’s wines are never forbidding in their youth, but this deserves some time in bottle to properly unfurl its multilayered complexity.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
Gigantic nose of candied orange slices and baking spices with just a hint of flint. Fantastic concentration and ripeness, while retaining poise and precision, this really shows that you don’t need a 1er designation to rock the chardonnay world! And the smokiness is so beautifully interwoven through the full-bodied palate. Terrific drive at the intensely chalky finish! From organically grown grapes.
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
A center of viticulture since Roman times, Pouilly-Loché sits east of Pouilly-Fuissé in front of a beautiful backdrop of the hills of Solutré and Vergisson. Attesting to the continuous vitality of viticulture in Pouilly-Loché, many of its cellars date back to the 17th century.
Within Pouilly-Loché, which is also part of Pouilly-Vinzelles, the wines of each of its many lieux-dits (small vineyard areas) claim distinct personalities because of extreme soil variations within this small area. In its northern end, soils are older schists and sandstones, which retain heat. In the south, towards Vinzelles, Pouilly-Loché claims cooler, iron-rich, clay-limestone soils resembling those of the rest of Vinzelles to the south.
Within the variations, a great Pouilly-Loché (always made of Chardonnay) often has characteristics reminiscent of honey, acacia, apricot and grapefruit; with age these will veer towards pear, quince, dried fruit, hazelnut and ginger. These pair perfectly with roasted or tandoori chicken, guinea fowl and olives or fresh water fish dishes.