Winemaker Notes
Although it hails from a lesser-known site than some of the domaine's other wines, François always serves his Pitures last in the lineup, and for good reason: this cuvée offers the sternest, firmest, most elemental sense of structure of all the Volnay premier crus in the cellar. Situated near the Pommard border and adjacent to the fabled Clos des Ducs vineyard, Pitures expresses the broad, sanguine fruit more typically associated with Pommard, although a profound Volnay-esque sense of elegance permeates it as well. Bitouzet's vines here were planted between 1959 and 1974 and encompass just shy of a hectare. A "sauvage" wine with a sensual rusticity, this is the most "animal" of the Bitouzet reds, quite masculine and firm with profound tannins and great concentration; its deep color announces a wine of excellent density.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
This is both subtly fragrant and rooty, with quite a tannin structure on the compact, medium-bodied palate. Moderately dry, but this is definitely a wine that will benefit from more time in the bottle. Very bright in the quite tannic finish.
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Jasper Morris
Glowing purple, without the density of Clos des Chênes. A gentler bouquet, though heading towards a more austere style, which you can also see in the final tannins. The fruit profile, in a softer strawberry, is closer to Les Aussy. Drink from 2031-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.
Barrel Sample: 90-93
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
On the hillsides between Pommard and Meursault, Volnay is one of two villages in the Côte de Beaune of Burgundy that is recognized for its extraordinary Pinot Noir. Pommard is the other; the rest of the villages are most known for some of the most exceptional Chardonnay in the world. While Volnay Pinot Noir tends to be light in color and more delicate than that of Pommard, they typically stand on par with each other in regards to quality and demand.
Volnay can’t claim any Grands Crus vineyards but more than half of it has achieved Premier Cru status. Volnay Premiers Crus vineyards stretch across the entire village from northeast to southwest, abutting and actually falling “into” Meursault. Where they merge is a vineyard called Les Santenots. Pinot Noir grows in this Meursault Premier Cru but since that village is most associated with stellar whites, the Pinot Noir from Les Santenots, takes the name Volnay Santenots. Immediately above it are Volnay’s other prized Premier Cru, Le Cailleret, Champans, Clos des Chênes and Le Cailleret.
Volnay Pinot Noir are earthy with red or blue fruit. Aromas such as smoke, herbs, forest, cocoa and spice are common and on the palate they are gorgeous and concentrated with finesse but won’t truly charm you without some age.