Domaine Bernard Moreau St-Aubin Premier Cru En Remilly 2016
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
Barrel Sample: 90-92
Bernard Moreau is a viticulteur based in the village of Mancey, in the northernmost part of the Macon wine region. He has been in charge of his 8 hectare family domaine since 1982, when he took over from his father. The vineyards are planted with 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 30% Gamay vines. The Bernard Moreau Bourgognes transcend their origins and are among the finest estate-bottled Burgundy values available. Moreau adheres to the principle of sustainable agriculture. He takes great care to ensure that his vines are in excellent health by constantly observing the vegetative cycle and the natural environment. His observations allow Moreau to take the minimal necessary measures and avoid synthetic chemical treatments. Moreau plants grass between rows and leaves vine cuttings on the soil as mulch in order to control erosion and enrich the microbiological vitality of the soil. He ferments with only native yeasts.
A steep, upcountry basin (referred to as a combe in French) in the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, St. Aubin is a direct westerly neighbor to Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. Recent years have seen a boom in white wine production so that now Chardonnay accounts for more than three quarters of area under vine here. Two thirds of St. Aubin is classified Premier Cru (30 total vineyards); most notable include Les Charmois, La Chatenière, En Remilly and Les Murgers Dents de Chie. The Premiers Crus of St. Aubin, wrapping like a ribbon upon the southeast and southwest facing slopes, produce fresh and elegant whites from Chardonnay. When young, these tout a refreshing grip and convey qualities of white flowers, citrus, pear, green almond and wet stone. Given some age, a graceful evolution occurs so that older St. Aubin whites express richer aromas of beeswax, honey, marzipan and spice.
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.