Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2018 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru was more extroverted during my visit to the Rousseau cellars this year, exhibiting a rich and complex bouquet of smoked meats, ripe cherries, cassis, woodsmoke, nori, blackberries and dark chocolate, framed by a lavish application of cedary new oak. It's full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a ripe core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, palate-staining finish. The Clos de Bèze is more immediate and dramatic than this year's Chambertin.
Range: 96-98 -
Decanter
Generally poured last in any tasting at the domaine, as it's the most powerful wine in the line up, this Clos de Bèze hails from a 1.5ha parcel, which means that's in shorter supply than the Rousseau Chambertin. Plush, textured and grippy, this has understated richness, sinewy tannins, well-integrated 100% new wood and a chalky, refreshing finish.
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Jasper Morris
The Rousseau Clos de Bèze shows a rich deep purple colour that goes to the rim. Solid and powerful in bouquet, with some chocolate notes, a lightly bacterial reduction, restrained by a touch of spice. There is significant potential at the moment but the wine is showing awkwardly, with a rather dry finish.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
This small village is home to the Grands Crus in the farthest northerly stretches of Côte de Nuits and is famous for some of the deepest and firmest Burgundian Pinot Noir.
Gevrey boasts nine Grands Crus, the best of which are arguably Le Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. As with all of the fragmented vineyards of Burgundy, it isn’t easy to differentiate between the two, which are situated adjacent with Clos de Bèze slightly further up the hill than Le Chambertin. Clos de Bèze has a shallower soil and if you’re really counting, may produce wines less intense but more likely to charm. Some compare Le Chambertin in both power and plentitude only to the prized Romanée-Conti Grand Cru farther south in Vosne-Romanée.
Two other Grands Crus vineyards, Mazis-Chambertin (also written Mazy-) and Latricières-Chambertin command almost as much regard as Le Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. The upper part of Mazy, called Les Mazis Haut is the best and Latricières-Chambertin offers an abundance of juicy fruit and a silky texture in the warmer vintages.
Other Grands Crus are Ruchottes-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Mazoyères-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin and Chapelle-Chambertin.
The most respected Pinot Noir wines from Gevrey-Chambertin are robust and powerful but at the same time, velvety and expressive: black fruit, black liquorice and chocolate come into play. After some time in the bottle, the wines are harmonious with bright and sometimes candied fruit, and aromas of musk, truffle and forest floor. These have staying power.