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Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2016

Pinot Noir from Vougeot, Cote de Nuits, Cote d'Or, Burgundy, France
  • RP95
  • BH94
0% ABV
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Winemaker Notes

Critical Acclaim

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RP 95
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Seventy percent of the production was lost in the 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru that includes around 50% whole bunch and 70% new oak. Perhaps here I can just tell the stem addition more than on the crus from Gevrey, although I like the freshness and the floral scents that develop. The palate is ripe and generous at first, and then it becomes more precise and focused toward the second half and here I can barely tell the stem addition. Silky in texture with great length, this is a very endearing Clos de Vougeot.
Barrel Sample: 93-95
BH 94
Burghound.com
A beautifully complex nose combines notes of various red and dark berries with those of spice, violet and plenty of earth character. Once again there is both good muscle and concentration to the big-bodied flavors that possess evident muscle yet at the same time the mouthfeel is caressing, round and seductive. I like the balance here and the lingering finish is less youthfully austere than it usually is.
Barrel Sample: 91-94
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Denis Mortet

Domaine Denis Mortet

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Domaine Denis Mortet, France - Other regions
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A supremely talented vigneron, Arnaud Mortet is routinely praised for his work in the vineyards, even by his peers. Machines are no longer used in any sites; everything is done by hand here, and horses are now employed to plough all 1er and Grand Cru vineyards in order to minimize soil compaction. After the tragic death in 2006 of his legendary father, Denis, Arnaud took full control of the domaine, ably carrying on Denis' dream of making refined, elegant wines.

Arnaud's wines are reaching new levels, as the winemaker looks back to more traditional viniculture techniques. He keeps the yield very low, uses gentler macerations and a smaller percentage of new oak, and has increased the severity of fruit selection. A perfectionist by nature, and driven by a desire to honor his father's legacy, Arnaud is making superbly finessed and precise wines, as he continues to evolve this domaine.

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Containing the largest Grand Cru in all of the Côte d’Or, Vougeot, the village, takes its name from the small stream flowing through it, called Vouge. Over three quarters of the village retains Grand Cru status, and a single vineyard at that: Clos de Vougeot (or simply, Clos Vougeot). Its mass—over 50 ha—retains the single name chiefly for historic reasons.

But today, Clos de Vougeot contains over 80 owners and shows significant soil and slope variations within its boundaries. The top, bordering Musigny and Grands Echezeaux, is calcareous and gravelly on oolitic limestone and exhibits wonderful drainage. The middle sections are limestone, gravel and clay with less of a slope. The lower part has little slant and is mostly made of clay. Historically the diverse parcels were blended but today the abundance of owners means that everyone has his own style. Exploring and understanding them is part of the allure of Clos de Vougeot.

In general a fine Clos de Vougeot when young will be dense and dark but juicy, with a pronounced austerity, and needs a good ten years to bring it to its full potential.

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Pinot Noir

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One of the most finicky yet rewarding grapes to grow, Pinot Noir is a labor of love for many. However, the greatest red wines of Burgundy prove that it is unquestionably worth the effort. In fact, it is the only red variety permitted in Burgundy. Highly reflective of its terroir, Pinot Noir prefers calcareous soils and a cool climate, requires low yields to achieve high quality and demands a lot of attention in the vineyard and winery. It retains even more glory as an important component of Champagne as well as on its own in France’s Loire Valley and Alsace regions. This sensational grape enjoys immense international success, most notably growing in Oregon, California and New Zealand with smaller amounts in Chile, Germany (as Spätburgunder) and Italy (as Pinot Nero).

In the Glass

Pinot Noir is all about red fruit—strawberry, raspberry and cherry with some heftier styles delving into the red or purple plum and in the other direction, red or orange citrus. It is relatively pale in color with soft tannins and a lively acidity. With age (of which the best examples can handle an astounding amount) it can develop hauntingly alluring characteristics of fresh earth, savory spice, dried fruit and truffles.

Perfect Pairings

Pinot’s healthy acidity cuts through the oiliness of pink-fleshed fish like salmon and tuna but its mild mannered tannins give it enough structure to pair with all sorts of poultry: chicken, quail and especially duck. As the namesake wine of Boeuf Bourguignon, Pinot noir has proven it isn’t afraid of beef. California examples work splendidly well with barbecue and Pinot Noir is also vegetarian-friendly—most notably with any dish that features mushrooms.

Sommelier Secret

For administrative purposes, the region of Beaujolais is often included in Burgundy. But it is extremely different in terms of topography, soil and climate, and the important red grape here is ultimately Gamay, not Pinot noir. Truth be told, there is a tiny amount of Gamay sprinkled around the outlying parts of Burgundy (mainly in Maconnais) but it isn’t allowed with any great significance and certainly not in any Village or Cru level wines. So "red Burgundy" still necessarily refers to Pinot noir.

MARMORDCV16_2016 Item# 187330