Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2016
Intense and earthy, it reveals flavours of sour cherry and fresh cherry that continue into the long finish. Its powerfulness increases with time, it becomes more refined and silky. It has the elegance of a fine ageing wine.
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
Protected by the wall of the Clos, this comes from a 0.35-hectare parcel of 50-year-old vines
next to Château de la Tour. As it was last year, it’s one of the best expressions of the Grand
Cru in 2016, a wine that is everything that a great Clos de Vougeot should be, with 50% whole
bunches and 70% new oak. Textured, fine and assertive, with filigree tannins and bright,
refreshing acidity. 2024-36.
Barrel Sample: 93-95
Barrel Sample: 91-94
Arnaud's wines are reaching new levels, as the winemaker looks back to more traditional viniculture techniques. He keeps the yield very low, uses gentler macerations and a smaller percentage of new oak, and has increased the severity of fruit selection. A perfectionist by nature, and driven by a desire to honor his father's legacy, Arnaud is making superbly finessed and precise wines, as he continues to evolve this domaine.
Containing the largest Grand Cru in all of the Côte d’Or, Vougeot, the village, takes its name from the small stream flowing through it, called Vouge. Over three quarters of the village retains Grand Cru status, and a single vineyard at that: Clos de Vougeot (or simply, Clos Vougeot). Its mass—over 50 ha—retains the single name chiefly for historic reasons.
But today, Clos de Vougeot contains over 80 owners and shows significant soil and slope variations within its boundaries. The top, bordering Musigny and Grands Echezeaux, is calcareous and gravelly on oolitic limestone and exhibits wonderful drainage. The middle sections are limestone, gravel and clay with less of a slope. The lower part has little slant and is mostly made of clay. Historically the diverse parcels were blended but today the abundance of owners means that everyone has his own style. Exploring and understanding them is part of the allure of Clos de Vougeot.
In general a fine Clos de Vougeot when young will be dense and dark but juicy, with a pronounced austerity, and needs a good ten years to bring it to its full potential.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”