Demetria Estate Pinot Noir Cuvee Sandra 2006
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Wine Enthusiast
This best-of-barrels reserve shows a richness and complexity that make for compelling drinking. A mixture of several clones and selections of Pinot Noir, the wine has firm tannins, but the burst of cherries, red currants, root beer and sweet smoky oak gives it a supple, mouth-filling quality. Delicious now with decanting, and should hold and improve through 2012.
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Connoisseurs' Guide
Significantly riper than Demetria's Le Bélier bottling and reaching for the limits of excess, this wine holds back just enough to allow its concentrated black cherry fruit to remain nicely in focus. That said, there is an unmistakable syrupy quality to its fruit and a bit of ending hotness, both of which render the wine a touch less interesting than its mate.
Demetria Estate includes two separate portfolios of wines, both capturing the singularity of the vineyards and the region from which they originated.
The offerings comprise of varietally honest manifestations of pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot gris and pinot blanc farmed sustainably in the Santa Rita Hills appellation of Santa Barbara County.
We also farm biodynamically our Rhone-based wines of consequence and environmental merit. This estate vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley includes syrah, mourvedre, grenache and viognier, roussanne, marsanne and grenache blanc.
Let’s start with the obvious – Central Coast Pinot Noir is an incredibly broad category. This of course is because the Central Coast appellation is enormous, and it contains several stellar Pinot Noir regions within it, all of them kept cool by elevation or proximity to the ocean (or both). So we’ll break things down a bit with a brief look at each of these: Santa Cruz Mountains, Monterey and the Santa Lucia Highlands, Santa Maria Valley and Sta. Rita Hills. These are not the only Central Coast sources of good Pinot Noir, but they are the major ones. So let’s get started.
In the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation, just west of Silicon Valley, producers craft excellent Pinot in spite of serious challenges. The land is mountainous, rugged and can be foggy, the topsoil is thin and poor and yields tend to be low. Yet Pinots from the likes of David Bruce, Martin Ray, Mount Eden and Thomas Fogarty exhibit undeniable quality, along with bright red fruit, minerality, earth and herbal hints.
Just south lies the large Monterey appellation. Monterey Pinot Noir is grown in coastal areas, taking optimal advantage of the cooling effect of the Pacific. The most highly regarded of these is the Santa Lucia Highlands. Situated on hilly benchlands south of the city of Monterey, this central coast region relies on a long growing season, night and morning fog and consistent afternoon winds to produce world class Pinot Noir. Attributes include intense, rich fruit, subtle earthy notes, spice and a silky texture. Look for producers like Siduri, Kosta Browne, Talbott and Lucienne.
The Santa Maria Valley in northern Santa Barbara County (a section of it falls into southern San Luis Obispo County) is also a haven for quality Pinot Noir. A mere 15 miles from the Pacific, the valley runs east-west, creating a natural tunnel through which ocean breezes and fog flow. This effect lengthens the growing season and promotes both ripeness and development of acidity, lending Santa Maria Valley Pinots their characteristic full flavor, balance and elegance. The famous Bien Nacido Vineyard is located here, and notable producers include Cambria, Foxen, Byron and Au Bon Climat.
Finally, we arrive at the Sta. Rita Hills, also in Santa Barbara County. Located in the western part of the Santa Ynez Valley, it too benefits from an east-west orientation that leads to the same conditions mentioned above. Once again the result is extended hang time for the grapes, which can be tasted in the vibrant, ripe red fruits evident in these Pinots, along with dense coloration and an impression of richness and intensity. Try wines from producers like Ken Brown, Ampelos, Fess Parker and Melville.
As you can see, California’s Central Coast offers a wealth of options for any lover of Pinot Noir. Cheers!