Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The Conterno Fantino 2016 Barolo Ginestra Vigna del Gris comes from a site in Monforte d'Alba that has a big component of loose sand in the soils. These well-draining conditions add to the softness and concentrated aromatic intensity of Nebbiolo. In fact, the bouquet here brings us a medley of red and purple fruits with some ripe blackberry and plum. It shows a hint of pretty cherry sweetness with spice, tobacco and candied licorice. The mouthfeel is full and generous, and this supple Barolo wraps smoothly and luxuriously over the palate. Rating: 96+
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Wine & Spirits
This wine captures the character of the 2016 vintage with exuberant aromas of rose petals, mint and sage and vibrant red berry and cherry flavors. Those aromas and flavors remain poised and balanced for days after the bottle has been opened, suggesting a long life ahead, though the sheer energy of this wine makes it immensely appealing even now.
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James Suckling
Extremely perfumed with ripe strawberries and hints of dried flowers. Hints of hazelnuts. It’s full-bodied with a solid core of ripe fruit and ripe, polished tannins. Tight center palate. Very persistent. This is reserved now, but shows beautiful potential. Try after 2023.
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Wine Spectator
Focused on bright cherry, black currant and freshly cut hay aromas and flavors, this red is vibrant, verging on racy. Accents of iron, tobacco and tar add complexity, and this is balanced and long on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2045.
Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba.
The center of the production of the world’s most exclusive and age-worthy red wines made from Nebbiolo, the Barolo wine region includes five core townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. The landscape of Barolo, characterized by prominent and castle-topped hills, is full of history and romance centered on the Nebbiolo grape. Its wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, have a deceptively light garnet color but full presence on the palate and plenty of tannins and acidity. In a well-made Barolo wine, one can expect to find complexity and good evolution with notes of, for example, strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.
There are two predominant soil types here, which distinguish Barolo from the lesser surrounding areas. Compact and fertile Tortonian sandy marls define the vineyards farthest west and at higher elevations. Typically the Barolo wines coming from this side, from La Morra and Barolo, can be approachable relatively early on in their evolution and represent the “feminine” side of Barolo, often closer in style to Barbaresco with elegant perfume and fresh fruit.
On the eastern side of the Barolo wine region, Helvetian soils of compressed sandstone and chalks are less fertile, producing wines with intense body, power and structured tannins. This more “masculine” style comes from Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. The township of Castiglione Falletto covers a spine with both soil types.
The best Barolo wines need 10-15 years before they are ready to drink, and can further age for several decades.