Winemaker Notes
The Volnay Fremiets are divided into two parcels, one planted in 1950 and the other in 1980. Both border the Pommard appellation, in fact the soil is very similar with a significant concentration of iron oxide. Yet the rock base is more characteristic of Volnay. These wines tend to be delicate and elegant from attack to mid-palate (Volnay) then quickly gain structure for the finish (Pommard).
Professional Ratings
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Decanter
Produced from a 0.4ha parcel of old vines which were first planted 80 years ago, this premier cru is located at the northern extremity of Volnay, right on the border with Pommard. It is always one of the first to ripen and here it shows that ripeness to good effect, with a concentration that enrobes the palate and envelopes it with flavours of ripe plum fruit, plus some spice.
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Jasper Morris
I got some slightly mixed messages from the Volnay Fremiets this year as it seemed a little bit affected by the heat, yet it has the lowest alcohol in the cellar at 13.7%. That apart, there are some attractive deep strawberry notes along with some raspberry. I will be interested to see this again in bottle.
Barrel Sample: 89-92
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
On the hillsides between Pommard and Meursault, Volnay is one of two villages in the Côte de Beaune of Burgundy that is recognized for its extraordinary Pinot Noir. Pommard is the other; the rest of the villages are most known for some of the most exceptional Chardonnay in the world. While Volnay Pinot Noir tends to be light in color and more delicate than that of Pommard, they typically stand on par with each other in regards to quality and demand.
Volnay can’t claim any Grands Crus vineyards but more than half of it has achieved Premier Cru status. Volnay Premiers Crus vineyards stretch across the entire village from northeast to southwest, abutting and actually falling “into” Meursault. Where they merge is a vineyard called Les Santenots. Pinot Noir grows in this Meursault Premier Cru but since that village is most associated with stellar whites, the Pinot Noir from Les Santenots, takes the name Volnay Santenots. Immediately above it are Volnay’s other prized Premier Cru, Le Cailleret, Champans, Clos des Chênes and Le Cailleret.
Volnay Pinot Noir are earthy with red or blue fruit. Aromas such as smoke, herbs, forest, cocoa and spice are common and on the palate they are gorgeous and concentrated with finesse but won’t truly charm you without some age.