Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Jeb Dunnuck
The tiny production 2018 Châteauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum comes from a single parcel in the famed La Crau lieu-dit and is brought up in demi-muids. Released only in magnum, it’s consistently been one of the most singular, brilliant expressions of Grenache in any vintage it’s been produced. The 2018 isn’t going to break that trend yet it checks in behind some of the greats such as the 2007, 2010, 2016, and 2017. Revealing a translucent ruby hue as well as a glorious bouquet of kirsch liqueur, ground pepper, cured meats, candle wax, garrigue, and Provençal spice, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness as well as a seamless, Grand Cru Burgundy like mouthfeel that carries sensational richness yet so sense of heaviness or weight. With no hard edges, beautiful tannins, flawless balance, and a great, great finish, it’s going to drink beautifully over the coming 15 years or more.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
When I visited in June 2019, the selection for the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum hadn't yet been done, so this is my first look at the wine. It's marked by the new oak demi-muids, with layers of vanilla and cedar sitting atop luscious cherry fruit on the nose, and slightly drying wood tannins evident on the full-bodied palate and extending through the long finish. Personally, I prefer the less-obvious wood and nuanced complexities in the estate's other premium cuvées in 2018, but there is no denying the hedonistic appeal of this 100% Grenache.
With bold fruit flavors and accents of sweet spice, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre form the base of the classic Rhône Red Blend, while Carignan, Cinsault and Counoise often come in to play. Though they originated from France’s southern Rhône Valley, with some creative interpretation, Rhône blends have also become popular in other countries. Somm Secret—Putting their own local spin on the Rhône Red Blend, those from Priorat often include Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In California, it is not uncommon to see Petite Sirah make an appearance.
Famous for its full-bodied, seductive and spicy reds with flavor and aroma characteristics reminiscent of black cherry, baked raspberry, garrigue, olive tapenade, lavender and baking spice, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the leading sub-appellation of the southern Rhône River Valley. Large pebbles resembling river rocks, called "galets" in French, dominate most of the terrain. The stones hold heat and reflect it back up to the low-lying gobelet-trained vines. Though the galets are typical, they are not prominent in every vineyard. Chateau Rayas is the most obvious deviation with very sandy soil.
According to law, eighteen grape varieties are allowed in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and most wines are blends of some mix of these. For reds, Grenache is the star player with Mourvedre and Syrah coming typically second. Others used include Cinsault, Counoise and occasionally Muscardin, Vaccarèse, Picquepoul Noir and Terret Noir.
Only about 6-7% of wine from Châteauneuf-du-Pape is white wine. Blends and single-varietal bottlings are typically based on the soft and floral Grenache Blanc but Clairette, Bourboulenc and Roussanne are grown with some significance.
The wine of Chateauneuf-du-Pape takes its name from the relocation of the papal court to Avignon. The lore says that after moving in 1309, Pope Clément V (after whom Chateau Pape-Clément in Pessac-Léognan is named) ordered that vines were planted. But it was actually his successor, John XXII, who established the vineyards. The name however, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, translated as "the pope's new castle," didn’t really stick until the 19th century.