Winemaker Notes
#50 Wine Enthusiast Top 100 of 2020
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 La Gaffeliere is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the nose is a little closed to begin, slowly unfurling to reveal fragrant scents of kirsch, black raspberries and warm plums plus suggestions of unsmoked cigars, rosehip tea and underbrush. Medium-bodied, the palate has fantastic elegance and sophistication, with tons of bright, perfumed fruit and exquisitely ripe tannins, finishing with bags of freshness and energy. Since the lower-lying sections of La Gaffeliere were affected by frost this year, this wine mainly comes from the section up on the Saint-Émilion plateau, near Ausone. Truly impressive!
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Wine Enthusiast
This wine has good structure, delicious black-currant fruits and powerful tannins. Its dry core will drive this wine forward as it matures. The aftertaste brings out the fruitiness of the vintage. Drink from 2024.
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Decanter
Richly layered, clearly one of the best in this flight, with mouth-watering minerality (for me, that quality always come across as texture not taste). This is an excellent wine, intense in the way that not many are in 2017. Austere but ready to grow, it has bedded down and improved over ageing. An unusual blend because of the frost, but one that they are going to stick to over the long term. Drinking Window 2024 - 2040
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James Suckling
There are some sappy and leafy elements to the nose with a thread of red berries and fresh blueberries. The palate has plush, lithe and juicy appeal with smoothly rendered tannins and juicy, crunchy acidity. Drink or hold.
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Wine Spectator
Floral and elegant from the start, with lilac and violet notes streaming forth, followed by cassis, cherry puree and raspberry reduction flavors. A lovely snap of anise and a subtle apple wood accent help to frame the finish, which shows good latent energy. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2038.
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Jeb Dunnuck
A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, raised in 50% new oak, the 2017 Chateau La Gaffeliere is a beautiful effort from this estate that does everything right. Giving up lots of black raspberry and cassis-like fruits as well as plenty of spice and flowery incense, it hits the palate with medium to full body, a rounded, elegant texture, and sweet tannins. It's a beautifully classic, elegant wine from this team that will evolve nicely for over two decades.
One of the world’s most classic and popular styles of red wine, Bordeaux-inspired blends have spread from their homeland in France to nearly every corner of the New World. Typically based on either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot and supported by Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, the best of these are densely hued, fragrant, full of fruit and boast a structure that begs for cellar time. Somm Secret—Blends from Bordeaux are generally earthier compared to those from the New World, which tend to be fruit-dominant.
Marked by its historic fortified village—perhaps the prettiest in all of Bordeaux, the St-Émilion appellation, along with its neighboring village of Pomerol, are leaders in quality on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. These Merlot-dominant red wines (complemented by various amounts of Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon) remain some of the most admired and collected wines of the world.
St-Émilion has the longest history in wine production in Bordeaux—longer than the Left Bank—dating back to an 8th century monk named Saint Émilion who became a hermit in one of the many limestone caves scattered throughout the area.
Today St-Émilion is made up of hundreds of independent farmers dedicated to the same thing: growing Merlot and Cabernet Franc (and tiny amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon). While always roughly the same blend, the wines of St-Émilion vary considerably depending on the soil upon which they are grown—and the soils do vary considerably throughout the region.
The chateaux with the highest classification (Premier Grand Cru Classés) are on gravel-rich soils or steep, clay-limestone hillsides. There are only four given the highest rank, called Premier Grand Cru Classés A (Chateau Cheval Blanc, Ausone, Angélus, Pavie) and 14 are Premier Grand Cru Classés B. Much of the rest of the vineyards in the appellation are on flatter land where the soils are a mix of gravel, sand and alluvial matter.
Great wines from St-Émilion will be deep in color, and might have characteristics of blackberry liqueur, black raspberry, licorice, chocolate, grilled meat, earth or truffles. They will be bold, layered and lush.