Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Marketed as Vin de France, the newest release of the former Saumur is the 2019 Chenin Arcane. Born on iron-rich silex soils, the wine opens still yeasty and reductive on the complex and mysterious nose, with notes of iron, iodine and ripe fruits with ethereal herbal nuances. However, the wine still lacks the purity, precision and finesse of the Cabernets at this early stage, and this was still the case after several days of aeration. Rich, round and highly refined on the palate, this is a full-bodied, complex, very long and intense Chenin with ripe pear aromas and a persistent structure with fine tannins, salts and this abundant fruit. I am convinced this is another great terroir and vintage-driven Chenin from the Piré families, yet I would cellar it for at least 5-10 years.
Unquestionably one of the most diverse grape varieties, Chenin Blanc can do it all. It shines in every style from bone dry to unctuously sweet, oaked or unoaked, still or sparkling and even as the base for fortified wines and spirits. Perhaps Chenin Blanc’s greatest asset is its ever-present acidity, maintained even under warm growing conditions. Somm Secret—Landing in South Africa in the mid 1800s, today the country has double the acreage of Chenin Blanc planted compared to France. There is also a new wave of dedicated producers committed to restoring old Chenin vines.
A small category representing the wines that either fall outside of appellation lines or don’t subscribe to the law and traditions set forth by the French government within certain classified appellations, “Vin De France” is a catch-all that includes some of the most basic French wines as well as those of superior quality. The category includes large production, value-driven wines. It also includes some that were made with a great deal of creativity, diligence and talent by those who desire to make wine outside of governmental restrictions. These used to be called Vin de Table (table wine) but were renamed to compete with other European countries' wines of similar quality.