Winemaker Notes
Four generations of Povero family wisdom unite to create a beautifully unstoppable force in the heart of Piedmont. Since 1837 the Povero family has inhabited the land in Cisterna d’Asti and, beginning with the first vine plantings in Canale d’Alba, they have slowly and strategically purchased and cultivated vineyards in all three of the Roero, Langhe, and Monferrato appellations. Their 50 hectares of vineyards sit around 320 meters in elevation and bask in the direct northern Italian sun. Their prime location in Cisterna d’Asti affords them a unique versatility in producing an exciting range of wines. Cantine Povero is undoubtedly a family affair, started in 1964 by Giovanni and Michelino Povero and currently managed by Alessio Povero, he is the third generation to run the estate, aided by siblings.
Grandfather Tumlin planted the first vines in the '40s and it feels as though he still lives through them today. His children, grandchildren, and now great-grandchildren feel his wisdom, traditions, and lessons every day, even as Cantine Povero adopts modern technologies in their winemaking. They hold firmly to classical roots though, specifically in their rigorous adherence to natural, environmentally friendly technologies and winemaking techniques. Among the many lessons of Grandfather Tumlin was the emphasis on humble respect for the land--Alessio, his siblings, and his children all understand the importance of a firm but patient hand when cultivating their vineyards. They believe in “responsible intervention, which one has for something or someone that is thoroughly loved.”
The center of the production of the world’s most exclusive and age-worthy red wines made from Nebbiolo, the Barolo wine region includes five core townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. The landscape of Barolo, characterized by prominent and castle-topped hills, is full of history and romance centered on the Nebbiolo grape. Its wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, have a deceptively light garnet color but full presence on the palate and plenty of tannins and acidity. In a well-made Barolo wine, one can expect to find complexity and good evolution with notes of, for example, strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.
There are two predominant soil types here, which distinguish Barolo from the lesser surrounding areas. Compact and fertile Tortonian sandy marls define the vineyards farthest west and at higher elevations. Typically the Barolo wines coming from this side, from La Morra and Barolo, can be approachable relatively early on in their evolution and represent the “feminine” side of Barolo, often closer in style to Barbaresco with elegant perfume and fresh fruit.
On the eastern side of the Barolo wine region, Helvetian soils of compressed sandstone and chalks are less fertile, producing wines with intense body, power and structured tannins. This more “masculine” style comes from Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. The township of Castiglione Falletto covers a spine with both soil types.
The best Barolo wines need 10-15 years before they are ready to drink, and can further age for several decades.
Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba.