Winemaker Notes
-Wine Enthusiast
We continue on our quest for the middle path. Having posited that syrah represents the eternal feminine, we are still searching for the proper balance between subtlety and power, delicate perfume and smoky meatiness, elegance and concentration. And while the French do employ the feminine article, la, the specter of this variety's modern origins in the testosterone infused terroirs of Hermitage and Cornas demand that la syrah exhibit considerable depth of flavor. We have once again blended vastly differing syrahs from various regions to push and full the final blend into a coherent whole. Grapes from Jeff Brown's Oak Park Vineyard provide an abundance of color, spice, wintergreen and the particular viande character which is one of the calling cards of proper syrah. San Bernabe Vineyard in Monterey produces a much prettier wine, bright, fruity – in the blackberry, raspberry range – and floral. Ca' del Solo and Chequera Vineyards provide a very potent core of richness and tannin with an exceptionally high-toned note of violet. Still very much the essence of yin, this quite powerful wine nonetheless has grip and stuffing out the yang.
Professional Ratings
California is a winemaking colossus; by itself it is the fourth largest producer in the world. Red wine accounts for 56% of the total by volume, and red grapes 63% of total acres planted. In addition, a number of California red wines are heralded as being among the most prestigious and sought-after wines in the world.
While the state’s incredibly diverse geography, soils and microclimates allow for a wide array of styles, the key factor unifying California red wine is the abundance of sunshine and a long, consistent growing season. This leads to well-developed fruit marked both by impressive ripeness and balancing acidity.
The state’s most famous red wine region, of course, is Napa Valley, where Cabernet Sauvignon reigns as king. But California boasts a wealth of other impressive appellations. The much larger and climatically varied Sonoma County also produces world class California Cabernet, along with wonderful examples of California Pinot Noir and Zinfandel.
Fine versions of Cabernet and Zinfandel hail from Paso Robles as well, which is also gaining fame with Rhone varietals like Syrah and Grenache. As for Pinot Noir, terrific examples can be found from AVA’s such as Anderson Valley, Carneros, Santa Lucia Highlands and Sta. Rita Hills. Wineries in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties are making wonderful Syrahs, and the Sierra Foothill appellations are proving to be an experimental hotbed, with Italian and Spanish varietals employed to great effect.
This of course is a mere sketch. The subject of California red wine is as deep and broad as an ocean, and absolutely a joy to explore!